Now that Hermès’s time slot has moved on the Paris Fashion Week calendar from Wednesday to Monday, Miu Miu is the last major show of the month, which means it’s got to be good enough to keep the tired audience’s attention. Miuccia Prada and her team took great care with the venue — wallpaper walls, custom stools for seating — but the clothes were obviously (and thankfully) the main event here.
First, let’s talk silhouette: There was an emphasis on the shoulder — either with exaggerated puffed sleeves or a ruffled yoke — and A-line skirts that fell just below the knee. Buttons were jumbo-sized and playful. Prints were mixed and plentiful: orange houndstooth, brocade leopard spots and candy stripes were all the sorts of things that fast fashion giants will claim as their own long before these runway looks hit stores. One element those knock-off pros won’t come close to mastering? The snakeskin dress coats and pleated skirts, which my seat partner proclaimed will likely cost a fortune: they were too scale-y to be faux.
Whatever Mrs. Prada had in mind in terms of inspiration, these looks had real spirit. As did the accessories, which were some of the best she’s done for the brand in several seasons. The pointy-toe shoes with Pilgrim buckles — available in several fun colors — were the sort of ugly-pretty thing the designer does best. What a way to close the week.