Bonjour, Paris! Our fall 2015 collection coverage is wrapping up in fashion's first city. For more of our Paris Fashion Week coverage, click here.
Coats, coats, coats. We couldn't think of anything else after leaving Sacai. Not even the breathtaking view from the ninth floor of the Centre Pompidou, where the show took place, could distract us. For her fall collection, designer Chitose Abe mixed padded leather and thick knits, strips of colorful fur and more to create chunky, gotta-have-'em anoraks. An oversized leather jacket, for instance, featured cable-knit fringe that swung from the back. There were great sweaters, too, patchworked together to look like the sporty sisters of Abe's new collaboration with Nike. — Margault Antonini
Vanessa Seward showed her first namesake collection on Tuesday with the backing of friend and longtime collaborator Jean Touitou. For the past couple of years, Seward has been designing a capsule collection for Touitou's brand, A.P.C., and it's done so well that they decided to make it a standalone label. For her first outing, instead of hosting a presentation at the A.P.C. studio, she chose to stage a runway show at the Mona Bismarck American Center for Art and Culture. A runway show immediately changes my thinking about any collection: There's a level of seriousness to it that can backfire if a designer is not prepared.
To be honest, I think Seward would have benefited from hosting a more casual event. The clothes were satisfying in the way her past capsule collections for A.P.C. have been — I liked the shearling-lined boots, the shamrock-printed tea dress and the black lace tunic top, in particular — but they were unchanged. It was difficult to see where Vanessa Seward, the label, ends, and A.P.C. begins. How might a Vanessa Seward store, for instance, look different from an A.P.C. store?
Perhaps Touitou is thinking that he will build up the two brands in the way Maje and Sandro have managed. (Designed by two sisters, Judith Milgrom and Evelyne Chétritethe, the labels are entirely complementary. And for many shoppers, certainly interchangeable.) While I'm not entirely against this strategy, I do think that it would be interesting to see Seward experiment a bit. I remember enough of her chic, '60s and '70s-inspired red carpet dresses for the fashion house Azzaro to know that she has more to offer. — Lauren Sherman
Ladies love a scalloped edge. On dresses, skirts and now, thanks to Nicholas Kirkwood, shoes. For his pop art, swinging '60s-inspired fall collection, the designer created a cut-out heel that'll look as charming paired with a shift dress as it will vintage Levi's. Other new shapes included a snow boat and a "creeper, slipper, sneaker hybrid," some accented with black shearling. "It's my answer to New York's freezing weather," the designer quipped during his presentation. If next winter is anything like what we just experienced, he'll be the most popular man in town. — Lauren Sherman
Véronique Branquinho is in a dark mood for winter. Her show opened with a model wearing a long black leather dress, which was followed by a black coat with matching leather gloves, reminiscent of the Victorian era. There was a party-worthy velvet suit, worn over a delicate lace bra, and a cut-out bow blouse paired with a pleated leather skirt. But the designer wanted more for her muse. By the end, the collection lightened up, ending with a pale yellow jumpsuit. — Margault Antonini