Compared to New York Fashion Week, Bridal Fashion Week is a quiet, almost intimate affair. But anticipation hit a near Fashion Week-high at Oscar de la Renta's spring 2016 bridal collection show on Saturday, Peter Copping's first for the house. Like Copping's ready-to-wear debut for Oscar, this, too, was shown at the company's sun-drenched showroom near Bryant Park, with Executive Vice President (and de la Renta's stepdaughter) Eliza Bolen and Senior Vice President of Communications Erika Bearman (aka, OscarPRGirl) looking on.
For his debut, Copping said he wanted to create dresses for all "different sorts of weddings" -- from a more casual beach affair to black-tie, and something to wear post-ceremony and to the rehearsal dinner, too. For the more traditional-minded, there was a floor-length chevron lace gown with long, lace-embellished sleeves, as well as a strapless tulle ballgown, ruched at the bodice and delicately embroidered with pastel florals at the hem. For the more adventurous, there was a silk faille column gown cut high at the neck and low in the back, and a corded macramé column gown with playful ribbon-tie straps and an abbreviated underlay (to bare a little leg). There were several above-the-knee options with structured bodices and bell-shaped skirts for before or after the ceremony.
The collection looked "very Oscar," but also what may come to be known as what's "very Peter": Both the lingerie details and the short lengths Copping showed in his debut ready-to-wear collection for the house appeared again in the bridal collection. "I really wanted this collection, in some ways, to be an extension of what I’d done on the runway," Copping said. "Obviously bridal was a very, very large part of the house and Oscar was incredibly well known for a lot of very high-profile weddings... I just approached it in my own way and I think all the dresses here today look very, very Oscar, as well, and very relevant, but still with the house codes." Beyond the house's own archives, Copping said he dipped into the archives of Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix. Touches of Frida Kahlo were seen in the styling, most evident in the resplendent floral veil toppers.
This season, we've seen quite a few pantsuit options for the bride, ranging from tuxedos to jumpsuits and even a pair of lace overalls. We asked Copping if he considered designing a pantsuit for the bride. "I don’t know that de la Renta is necessarily the house where I’d associate a pantsuit for a bridal, so I don’t think you’ll really be seeing it sometime soon, but never say never," said Copping, adding that it would be difficult to outdo the one worn by Bianca Jagger. "I don’t think anyone can ever get it any better than she did."
Click through the gallery below to see all the bridal looks from the Oscar de la Renta spring 2016 runway show.