Notoriously, the Wednesday of New York Fashion Week brings a sharp decline in energy among the bleary-eyed show-goers. It's too bad, really, if only because that penultimate day typically highlights some of New York's favorite designers, from Michael Kors and DKNY to Suno and Proenza Schouler. Perhaps strategically, Spanish heritage house Delpozo also show on this day, infusing color, femininity and romance into a day packed with sleek, easily digestible looks. Not only do its extravagant designs stand out against Wednesday's contemporary brands, but they provide attendees with that extra, much-needed jolt of enthusiasm to get them to Thursday evening.
When creative director Josep Font first brought the Madrid-based label to New York Fashion Week for the fall 2013 season, it didn't take long for editors and buyers alike to become enchanted. It was immediately clear that Delpozo's whimsical prêt-à-couture would serve as a foil against Gotham's darker aesthetic; and for six seasons, it has. There were many moments during yesterday's show, set atop the water on Pier 59, when the clothes felt far too pristine to be shown during a week reserved for ready-to-wear. A live accordion band provided a delicate soundtrack that was reminiscent of what you might hear on a street corner in Seville, while a sea of dainty tea lights adorned the ceiling. It was a welcome departure from the harshness of Moynihan Station.
The tranquil venue served as an ideal backdrop for Delpozo's larger-than-life creations, which, per tradition, came down the catwalk at a slow, dramatic pace. This season, Font found inspiration in two sources: 1) Gypsy Ballads, a poetry collection by Spanish writer Federico García Lorca, and 2) Emilie Flöge, a prominent Austrian couturière whose work was considered quite Bohemian for the early 20th century. Their influence could be seen in the collection's artistic embellishments and feathers mingling with offbeat prints and embroidery. But through it all, Font's architectural background was obvious; even draped tops, more evocative of a poncho than a blouse, had structure to them.
As with several shows we've seen this week (Proenza Schouler and Zero + Maria Cornejo among them), the runway photos don't even begin to do the clothes justice. Much of the brand's allure lies in the deeply inventive ways Font combines fabrics, hues and materials, and as a result, each frock, jumpsuit and gown looks like nothing we've ever seen before. Delpozo's spring 2016 range (not to mention the dazzling presentation) was nothing short of a fairy tale, and we can't wait to see Font's playful pieces on the red carpet and beyond.