Lanvin was the last to show on Thursday evening, and Creative Director Alber Elbaz set the stage for a party, with chains hanging from the ceiling of the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts and "LANVIN" spelled out in lights above the runway. To a pumping soundtrack later interwoven with romantic ballads, a stern-faced Ruth Bell walked out in a palette cleanser: a poufy-sleeved white oxford and crisply tailored high-waisted black pants.
The rest of the clothes were not so simple nor clean. Like John Galliano at Margiela, Elbaz wanted to expose the underpinnings of clothes this season: messy seams were picked out in white thread on dark skirts, with loose bits of fabric trailing behind; tweed jackets and skirts were left excessively frayed; and bias-draped evening dresses were pinned aside to reveal the corseting underneath. Oversized shoulder ruffles and helter-skelter bow brooches; a trash bag-like jacket; and full-sequin dresses, pumps and jackets, many deflated of their form, added to the sense of couture gone awry. The show closed with a mish-mash of looks printed with shopping bags, shoes, leopard and the Lanvin name, so well-known for its good taste.