Pat McGrath, makeup artist extraordinaire, is playing the long game when it comes to teasing out her new cosmetics collection, supposedly due to drop at the end of 2016. In late October she released a very limited-edition run of Gold 001 — an innovative gold pigment that she bundled with some tools and mixing solution — and now her second teaser collection is here.
Called Phantom 002, it will be available to purchase on Dec. 15 at noon EST on her site for the very couture price of $240. Only 1,200 kits will be available. (Gold 001 sold out the first day.)
One landed in my mailbox, and I wasted no time smearing it all over myself. First of all, there are quite a few toys included in the bag of holographic sequins, so the price isn't quite as scary when you itemize it. There's Black 002 eye gloss, Copper 002 pigment, Fuchsia 002 eye blush, Blue 002 pigment, Gold 002 pigment, Black Caviar gel liner pencil and two brushes — a flat one and a small blender. All are branded "Pat McGrath Labs," so it's a nice sneak peek into some of the products that may show up in the main line when she finally releases it.
Because McGrath is known for her nontraditional use of makeup, she encourages users to be creative. "Provided are the tools necessary to generate a look meant for hardcore revelry. What is done with them is at the user's discretion, but Pat's tip: Use without caution. Don't play it safe," admonishes a press release.
Just to get a sense of how everything plays together, I swatched my arm up:
First of all, Gold 002 is different from Gold 001. The texture is dustier and sparklier, and it felt more like a traditional eye shadow powder, while Gold 001 is a denser pigment. All of the colors went on sheer and I had to build up to the level of color you see here with five or six generous brush passes and reloading pigment.
The black eye gloss is really easy to use and could be a game changer for those afraid of the smoky eye. "Gloss" is a bit of a misnomer, though. It's in a package that calls to mind a lip balm and goes on smoothly with a finger, but it's not really shiny and sticky like a traditional gloss. It has a sheen, but stays put nicely once it dries. A little bit goes a long way, and it smudges out well if you don't want to look like Siouxsie Sioux. It was really fun to dust pigment on top of the gloss, which resulted in an oil slick look. (I used all four colors of powder above.) The eye liner (not shown) was soft and went on with a thicker line. It's not for precise lining, but it glided on smoothly. I needed to use a generous amount of oil-based makeup remover to get everything off.
If you want to see the kit in action on an actual face, see McGrath's Instagram below, or check out Vogue.com for pictures of many beautiful people decked out in the pigments.