"It's not about good taste, it's about having fun," said hairstylist Eugene Souleiman backstage at Jeremy Scott on Monday. While much of the crew circulating around the warmly lit hair and makeup area wore wool beanies tight over their noggins to keep off the snow falling outside, Souleiman's team juggled blow-dryers and fist-sized rollers in an effort to give the models' hair as much height as possible. Describing the look, the beauty leads tossed around references to '60s burlesque dancers, pinups, John Waters heroines, "The Beverly Hillbillies," cowgirls and outer space. "It's very cheeky, sexy, big, kind of trashy hair," Souleiman said. "Which I love, you know."
What else would you expect from a designer who, between his own line and his other job at Moschino, very literally translates things like Barbie dolls, kids' cartoons and traffic control equipment into his collections? Across the room, makeup artist Kabuki, working with Mac Cosmetics, painted two curves of bright blue liner over model Veronika Vilim's eyes; hot pink lipstick and a star-shaped sequin secured below her left eye, like a beauty mark, rounded out the look. ("I just had them," Kabuki said of the metallic embellishments. "I collect all these things.") He had plastered down Vilim's eyebrows with a glue stick and covered them with gloss — to "make them look like plastic."
Maybe it was the effect of Vilim's elegant bone structure, but it worked. Miss Pop — a nail artist with a taste for winged eyeliner and dresses that pouf out at the waist — carried Scott's bold color palette onto the models' fingers, using one of five highly saturated OPI shades on each girl. To give the nails a more otherworldly look, she layered a pearlescent polish called "Kyoto Pearl" over that. "To me, these look like candy ribbons," she said of the luminous pink, orange and blue mixtures. But, she allowed, also very "space cowgirl."
Back in hair, Souleiman began waxing philosophic about the creative freedom surrounding Jeremy Scott's shows. "I just love the fact that we're not holding back, we're just having fun. Just cause we can, you know what I mean?" he said. "That's what I love about this show. It's a breath of fresh air." He seemed to mean it.
One beauty reporter wanted to know whether the lofty hair might translate to everyday life — though compared to last season's parade of tall, bouncing wigs, it already seemed like a large stride toward reality. Souleiman acknowledged that it could, with the use of some product at the roots and a big brush.
"But really going for it and doing the Priscilla Presley is kind of major," he said. "It can be diluted. I would prefer it wasn't."