One down, three to go. London will take up the fashion week torch on Friday morning, with 83 designers scheduled to show their fall/winter 2016 collections over a mere five days — the shortest of the major fashion weeks.
It's shaping up to be an especially exciting season, between Alexander McQueen's return to the city and the runway debut of new Mulberry Creative Director Johnny Coca. Here's what to keep on your radar.
Alexander McQueen returns to London
After more than 13 years in Paris, Alexander McQueen is returning to London to show its next collection, which will take place at 7 p.m. on Sunday at Whitehall Palace. It could very well be Creative Director Sarah Burton's last for the house — the designer is allegedly on the short list to replace Raf Simons at Dior.
New Mulberry creative director to make his debut
It's been nearly three years since former Mulberry Creative Director Emma Hill left the label, and at 4 p.m. on Sunday, her successor — Céline alum Johnny Coca — will show his first designs for the house. In a teaser video for the collection, Coca promised "to push the limits and to challenge convention, but also to be real and honest, respecting the rules of such a special part of Britain, always remembering who Mulberry is to all of you." Expect to see some red.
A.F. Vandevorst to show in London for the first time
Alexander McQueen isn't the only design house hopping the English Channel this season — A.F. Vandevorst, an independent Belgian label known for its mix of feminine, lingerie-inspired pieces with military-style outerwear, is too. It will be designers An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx's first time showing in the city.
Charlotte Olympia to hold first runway show
Anya Hindmarch has been hosting runway shows for several seasons now, and on Friday evening, fellow accessories designer Charlotte Olympia will join her with a catwalk presentation of her own.
Burberry to show its last collection on the traditional schedule
Earlier this month, Burberry announced that, come September, it will show both its women's and men's collections together at London Fashion Week in a buy-now, wear-now format — making Monday's scheduled show the last to adhere to the traditional format.
Teatum Jones returns home with International Woolmark Prize
Designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones have been showing on the London schedule since September 2014, but after winning the prestigious International Woolmark Prize in New York last week, we expect their fall/winter 2016 presentation on Saturday will be extra crowded.
Molly Goddard is a young star to watch
Molly Goddard's debut on the London fashion calendar last season was a smashing success, and expectations will be running high for her fall/winter 2016 showing. Other young labels worth keeping on your radar: Alice Archer, Claire Barrow, Sadie Williams, Ryan Lo, Marta Jakubowski, Faustine Steinmetz, Marques'Almeida, Alexander Lewis and Rejina Pyo.