Moschino designated #ItsLit as the hashtag for its fall 2016 show in Milan on Thursday, and of course the tongue-in-cheek brand took it to literal lengths, presenting evening gowns and minidresses covered in giant burn marks, with some even producing tufts of smoke as the models walked by. Or in Anna Cleveland's case, interpretive dance-walked on by.
Designer Jeremy Scott loves an elaborate set, and the runway was littered with bric-a-brac, including giant golden frames that the models passed through, often stopping a beat or two to pose. There were layers of vintage rugs, piles of antique mirrors, chaise lounges and heirloom chairs for front row guests to lounge in, as well as miscellaneous furniture lying about — giving the impression of an abandoned mansion with a colorful past.
The show began on a different tone, however, with lots of leather and moto jackets (some of which were converted into skirts and tops) that felt retro in a Pink Ladies meets Thunderbirds way. Oversized pastel bows and dramatic dress silhouettes were reminiscent of Alber Elbaz's signature Lanvin aesthetic. But it was the singed looks that really stood out: they were delicate yet glamorous in a very Moschino way, whether the pieces came in the form of a tuxedo suit or mermaid gown. The dresses felt lighter and full of movement by virtue of the burned out slashes. A standout look (literally, people in the audience stood up to take pictures) was a black column strapless dress worn underneath a large white chandelier attached at the waist, and it was actually full of candles. The model moved slowly and confidently, though it must have been very heavy.
Though not even such a contraption could compete with Molly Bair's smoky, red cape finale. With it's singed cuts, ruffled layers, bows and oversized sleeves, the look didn't feel disconnected from the typical Moschino cheesiness that comes from Scott's unwearable themes. But Bair pulled it off with a regal power that made the entire collection feel more relevant — or, at least, worthy of the theatrical gimmicks.
See the entire Moschino fall 2016 collection in the gallery below and check out the cigarette-themed capsule collection available to shop this weekend.