It was just one year ago that Peter Copping, who became artistic director of Oscar de la Renta shortly before the late designer's passing, held his first runway show. The debut proved that Copping was capable of carrying on de la Renta's legacy — and that he had a sincere respect for the legacy left him. Each successive collection has proven better than the last, as Copping has fused his own signatures and tastes, and a keen desire for youthfulness, with the house's own.
But the collection Copping showed on Tuesday was not his finest. Held at Prince George Ballroom just north of Madison Square Park, in a space carpeted over in mint for the occasion, Copping displayed some of his best eveningwear designs yet. But the daywear was largely uninspired, featuring a lot of plain colors (black, burgundy, grey) in conventional materials and shapes. The tapestry and wallpaper-inspired prints and patterns, rendered on skirt suits and princess coats, lacked the vivacity and modernity of pre-fall's graphic florals. One exception was a dove grey collarless coat: the delicate etching of seams, and the soft rounded cut of its three-quarter length sleeves, had a thoughtfulness that was missing in some of the other pieces.
If the daywear lacked passion, the eveningwear did not. There were some real standouts here: a sexy strapless sheath with a shiny fringed bodice and brocade skirt; a ruched black tulle gown dotted with jet beads that seems a dead-ringer for a major red carpet event; a burgundy silk faille gown with a fuschia sash flowing, unexpectedly, from the hip. We could go on.
See it all for yourself in the slideshow below.