After tackling the fall 2016 shows in New York, London and Milan and Paris, we've kept the fashion train rolling all the way through to Moscow, where the 32nd season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia (MBFWR) took place this week and wrapped up on Tuesday.
Designer Oleg Ovseev's collection was a crowd-pleaser, especially among the international press watching the shows with me. And while it wasn't my favorite of the day, it was original and very well constructed. My top look was one of a series that featured a voluminous, knee- or ankle-length coat over a flowy, delicate dress. As the models moved quickly down the white, reflective runway, the concentrated movement of the sheer fabric gave the effect of a smoke cloud around their feet.
Ivka designer Anastasia Gassi is a Central Saint Martins graduate who started her career as an abstract expressionist painter. You can feel that influence in the oversized shapes and unfinished edges of her latest collection. It felt perfect for the confident but jaded city girl who likes to stick to a uniform. This green skirt stood out among the mostly monochromatic looks without feeling too obvious or too heavy from the leather.
Salle de Mode
Georgian designer Salome Amanatishvili imbued futuristic, science fiction vibes into her latest collection of primarily head-to-toe black looks. The combination of this edgy, leather, harness-like top and and pleated sheer skirt was memorable for its wearability and power — like what a bartender on Tatooine might go for.
Gulyaev is a tentpole designer of the week, drawing huge celebrities names including pop star Yegor Krid (who I didn't recognize but who drew enough selfie-seeking admirers to tip me off). Gulyaev presented a long, varied collection of mens-, womens- and childrenswear pieces that felt more stereotypically Russian than other designers' work, mainly because of his focus on fur. This long, green, suede coat was my favorite of the bunch: a modern interpretation of a traditional silhouette.
With her feminine and wearable aesthetic, Alexandra Vanushina is one to watch in future seasons, especially if she is able to bring a more distinctive take on the solid, classic workwear and day pieces she presented. But this white striped dress was nonetheless a winner for its traditional shape and delicate texture.
In the runway venue's exhibition space, designer Ania Nebrenchina presented a capsule collection of leather jackets that were sure to please Russian street style stars The styles demonstrated the range of options Nebrenchina's customers can choose from to design custom pieces and, styled with shorts, highlighted the year round wearability of the wardrobe staple. While she clearly favored featuring peace signs on her jackets, this suede style with origami-style shapes stood out for its color palette and pop of glitter.