At the High Line for DKNY's spring 2017 runway show, laser lights covered the public park and its surrounding buildings, while a faint veil of fog hovered over the audience as the runway changed colors from bright orange to cool blue. Welcome to designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne's futuristic "Neo Soho." With all eyes on the New York-focused brand's future, the duo aimed for newness with their third collection — or, as the show notes describe it, "a solutions-based foundation to the millennial wardrobe."
If CEO Morris Goldfarb of New York-based apparel group G-III (which acquired Donna Karan International in July for $650 million) is betting on DKNY to be its "billion dollar trophy," then Chow and Osborne are going to have to design like a billion-dollar brand. For spring, they went the sporty-tech fashion route, creating suit jackets from tech milano jersey, dramatically oversized sweats, mesh bike shorts and logo-infused bra tops. Pieces like these are certainly on-trend, but billion-dollar brands like Nike and Adidas are already making a killing off of them. It was a pretty safe bet in a marketplace still banking on athleisure.
The show's finale was as social media-ready as last season, with all of the models — Bella Hadid, Stella Maxwell, Romee Strijd and Taylor Hill included — banding together for one final strut down the runway together, girl-gang style. The lively mix of blues, oranges and whites that made up the collection were suddenly transformed into a uniform mob of oversized onesies. Perhaps Chow and Osborne are as unsure of DKNY's future as we are.
See the spring 2017 DKNY collection in the gallery below.