With the increasing demands placed on creative directors at fashion brands (often causing them to run for the hills after just three years), where does a talented designer go when looking for the next move in his or her career? A menswear label, if you're Haider Ackermann: The designer has just been named creative director of LVMH-owned Berluti, according to a release.
His appointment may come as a surprise to many who thought of Ackermann as the Heir Apparent to many womenswear labels in Paris, including Dior and Chanel — which is precisely what he found appealing about the Berluti job. "Everyone was expecting me to do women's wear, so I wanted to do something else," he told The New York Times. "I have another story to tell." And then there are menswear's two seasons, a stark opposition to the four to six required of womenswear designers.
Ackermann will continue to helm his own womenswear and menswear lines, the latter of which was introduced in 2013; LVMH has not yet invested in his namesake label. He replaces Alessandro Sartori, who returned to Ermenegildo Zegna following the departure of Stefano Pilati (not even menswear is safe from designer musical chairs, it seems). Ackermann's first collection for Berluti will debut during the January 2017 menswear shows in Paris.
9/1/2016, 10:56 AM: This post has been updated to reflect a statement sent by Berluti.