Whenever I look at photos of my mother in the '80s — rocking big, fluffy curls and bright lipstick, of course — she always laughs and says, with a noticeable tone of embarrassment, "Hey, it was the '80s!" Well, if the spring 2017 runways are any indication, mom: you are now officially cool. (Kidding! You've always been cool.)
At Thom Browne, hairstylist Jimmy Paul riffed off the '60s and '80s (two decades known for volume, and lots of it) by creating a retro, fluffy shag look. "We're doing big, sexy, moveable hair," said Paul. Models with longer hair got some extra help via clipped-in extensions and a healthy dose of Bumble and Bumble Thickening Hairspray.
Heavy eyeliner also reigned supreme during the '80s, and at Altuzarra, makeup artist Tom Pecheux created a look suited for a "naughty, sexy woman" by rimming models' upper and lower lash lines with a black gel liner (Mac's Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack) for a smoldering, sultry look. Odile Gilbert crafted a "sophisticated, wet-hair look" that channeled the badass babes of the decade.
At Jeremy Scott, makeup artist Kabuki layered eyeshadow over a colorful pencil in orange, green or lavender and applied coordinating mascara on models' lashes to create a "butterfly" eye with an airbrushed effect. "It's an '80s eye, but done in a pretty way," explained Kabuki. "[Scott] didn't want it to be so literally '80s — it's more of a youth feel."
Over at Adam Selman, makeup artist Emi Kaneko interpreted the colorful makeup trend by applying generous swaths of magenta-toned blush from the lids to the tops of cheekbones in a semi-circle shape.
And finally, for Thakoon's return to NYFW, it was all about channeling the healthy, radiant glow of the classic supermodels of the decade: "The look is inspired by the late '80s American glamour girls like Cindy [Crawford], Christy [Turlington], Linda [Evangelista], Tatjana Patitiz, " said Diane Kendal, who went for sheer-coverage foundation and brushed-up brows. "Skin is gorgeous, makeup is fresh and beautifully groomed, with a hint of glamour."
And so while '90s-era fashion might still be enjoying its moment in the cultural zeitgeist (see: chokers), we're calling it now: Come next spring, '80s might very well be the word for all things beauty.