It's London Fashion Week, which means it's time for designers across the pond to show us what they've got. Read on for the looks we loved from the runways and presentations, and click here for even more reviews.
Johnny Coca's second runway offering as Mulberry Creative Director was far more grown-up fare than fall 2016's punky school girls. This look stood out in a sea of ladylike tailoring and muted tones, because who wouldn’t want to rock this boyish Bermuda suit to work if they could?
She's girly. She's tough. She'll probably knock you out in a bar even though she’s wearing florals and bunny rabbits, and her top's sheer enough to be sexy while she does it. Beware this girl, for she has it all.
This season showed a more casual offering from Peter Pilotto, and I'm not entirely sure it's a market they need to break into. Plenty of brands offer great denim and daywear, but very few people design an evening dress like Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos can. This look, though, demonstrates their mastery of print technology and girly (but never too sugary) silhouettes to perfection, without compromising their red-carpet finesse.
This single earring is also a necklace. Once that's sunk in (for it is surely the greatest invention in jewelry since the Apple watch), you've got sheer birds. You’ve got a beaded belt, a peplum that feels modern and not contrived, and a much-heralded return to the Jil Sander-esque silhouettes of five years ago. All hail the T-shirt tucked into the floor-length skirt — by far the coolest way to do black tie.
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
I loved every look from Preen's spring offering. EVERY. SINGLE. LOOK. But this one, though not the prettiest or most complicated, gets my pick for the fact I’m rushing home to sew ruffles round the rips of all the torn-knee jeans I was getting ready to cast off as old news. Beauty fans study closely, for this show had the best hair and makeup of any we've seen so far, with complex braids and dried flowers smashed into skin and lips. Start pressing your pansies now if you want them ready for the 2017 festival circuit.
Is it flattering? Of course not. But she somehow still manages to look thin underneath (let's ignore the fact that she's a model) and it makes us sing with neoprene-clad joy for the return of high-rise logo underwear under low-slung pants.
Young British designer Molly Goddard has been copied a lot by her more well-established peers lately, who are ripping off her signature pleated tulle left right and center. But few could create what is essentially a sheer tutu for your neck and make it look so chic. And also deserving of a mention – THAT HAIR!
If you're not wearing a swatch of your dress as a long single earring, what are you really doing with your life?
I know what you're thinking – those shorts are a little too short…
This dress is much airier and better detailed than it looks in this picture, where gauzy structures don’t tend to translate as well. Plus, the micro-mini dress-over-shorts is definitely a silhouette we can get behind for spring.
House of Holland
We've had print clashing, we've seen head-to-toe dressing in one color. Now it's time for print mania in the form of as many clashing ginghams as you can possibly collide into one outfit. Kudos too on the boots – Holland's best shoes yet.
It might have been nice to see Simone Rocha veer a little further from her comfort zone this season. But this dress above all breathed new life into her frothy chiffon confections, and makes a seriously strong case for sheer gloves.
Corset meets Bedlam meets Chanel meets Victoriana. Or something. Wherever Jonathan's head is at, we like it, even if we might not want to spend much time there. He currently reigns supreme as the only designer in London who makes clothes that are simultaneously covetable and mildly disturbing.
Mother of Pearl
So, is there like… a waitlist for these boots, or nah?
We can now put a beaded bra (as if everyone doesn't own one) over our longest, oldest pajama shirt and wear it to a party. If this is true and Ashley Williams is right, 2017 is going to be a hell of a year.
The shuttering of Meadham Kirchoff left a gap in the market for the whimsically, brilliantly bonkers world of Ryan Lo. This cardigan (coatigan?) looks like it's made out of either deflated balloons or cake icin; either way, it's giving me strong birthday party vibes and I think I rather like it.