Mansur Gavriel designers Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel are slowly but surely evolving past the solid, minimalist bucket bags that put them on the map when they launched in 2013.
Fresh off of their second consecutive CFDA Award win, the accessories designers staged their third New York Fashion Week presentation inside an open-plan space in Chelsea that was divided into three "rooms." Shoes and bags were displayed throughout, many of them in artful tableaus; a bag would occasionally be turned on its side or several of one style would be grouped together an Instagram-ready display. Models wearing the same voluminous, red Peter Pan-collar dress (which is not being produced), red sandals (which are being produced), long, middle-parted hair and cold expressions formed their own tableaus throughout the presentation, to a slightly creepy — yet aesthetically fitting — effect. It felt a bit like a museum exhibition, but one you wished you could take everything home from.
Rather than painting the walls as the brand has in past seasons, they were kept all white this time around, allowing this collection's vibrant new textures and color combinations to stand out.
"We were very interested in color and material and how [they] worked together; we wanted to present a very specific point of view," explained Mansur of the collection's starting point. "The color story is very different from previous seasons." For the first time, bags and shoes were not all monochromatic (though most were). A light blue bag had a tan handle, for example, while black mules and red sandals were accented with a thick white trim. The designers also played with new fabrics like silk, grosgrain and a checkered print — the brand's first foray into pattern.
The brand also introduced several entirely new styles, all Italian-made, that will debut for spring 2017 (and which you can browse in the gallery below). On the bag front, there are nine: the Posternak Bag, the Metropolitan Bag, the Saddle Bag (available in two sizes), the Satchel, the Baguette, the Evening Circle, the Compartment Bag, the Market Bag and the Long Clutch.
For your feet, there are eight: the Elegant Slipper, the 40mm D'orsay, the V Slide (flat and 40mm), the Two Tone Sandal, the Ankle Boot, the Village Sandal, the Crossover Sandal and the Fisherman Sandal.
The new fabrics and colors, in addition to being visually appealing, add even more originality to the brand's typically simple designs that have inspired both knockoffs and knockoff accusations. Of course, they still fit into the Mansur Gavriel world perfectly, and from the designers' point of view, they are just a natural evolution of the brand's aesthetic.
An aesthetic we'll surely be buying into come spring.
See all the new bag and shoe styles (and some familiar favorites) in the galleries below.
This article has been updated to remove comments made by the brand Kintu New York on an Instagram post that accused Mansur Gavriel of copying its design; the post was since taken down.