Fun fact: The last event that I attended at Hammerstein Ballroom, prior to Thursday afternoon's Marc Jacobs show, was a rave. It was October 2012, and French electronic duo Justice was touring to promote its album "Audio, Video, Disco." Details are admittedly a bit fuzzy, but the sold-out night devolved into a wild dance party — with one showgoer even falling from the third-story balcony into the pit below, only to be carried out on a stretcher, his hands waving the sign of the horns. A pretty badass way to go out, if you ask me.
To close down spring 2017 New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs clearly looked to ravers himself, albeit those of the late '80s and early '90s variety, back when New York was a grittier place and club kids — with their colorful, over-the-top, gender-bending fashion — ruled the underground social scene. The runway was illuminated with strands of twinkling bulbs and neon stage lights, with a bass-heavy trance soundtrack bumping as the models walked out one by one, wearing teetering platforms and boots (some lace-up, some covered in glitter, some decorated with emoji-like appliqués). Many of the party-ready looks — short, ruffled skirts and sweet baby doll dresses in silk, sequins, lace, brocade and patchwork leather, as well as metallic hot pants — were styled with thigh-high socks, either candy striped or embroidered with pearls. The dramatic outerwear was a focal point, and incorporated everything from fur and feather-adorned shoulders, pinned and patched denim jackets, varsity-style coats with sequined collegiate stripes, military parkas, metallic and suede trenches and even a tangerine ruffled bomber.
As far as reference points go, Jacobs really ran the gamut this season, at times building upon the gothic, Victorian theme of his fall 2016 show, while peppering in hints of the late David Bowie, '90s grunge and the aforementioned ravers. The most delightful details paid homage to the latter: Throughout the collection, hearts, stars, clouds, rocket ships and candy (or pills, unclear) embroideries decorated many looks, as well as things you'd likely visualize during an acid trip — like appliqués of a melting sun and desert scape, and a faucet dripping what appears to be lemons. Whether or not these pieces ever make it into production, we have a feeling Jacobs's fans of all ages will be inspired to attempt DIY versions for themselves.
Thanks to the brilliant casting by Katie Grand, the show's model lineup was easily one of the week's most impressive, with the Instagirls (Gigi, Bella, Kendall, Karlie), Jacobs's perennial muses (Jamie Bochert, Adriana Lima), and the new class of Victoria's Secret Angels (Taylor Hill, Stella Maxwell) all strapping on those treacherous shoes and taking the stage. Irina Shayk closed the show in some dangerously short metallic briefs, eliciting a cheer from the crowd — much like the designer did when he came out for his bow, in a moment worthy of a rock star. Aside from the problematic beauty look, Jacobs's electric show ended NYFW on a high note — in fact, it gave this editor enough of an energy boost that she feels (almost) ready to hit the club. It's over friends. Time to party.