Meet 19 Designers Making Their New York Fashion Week Debuts

This season's ones to watch run the gamut from streetwear, to lingerie, to a major retail chain.
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Photo: Morgan Lane

Photo: Morgan Lane

As you've probably noticed, designers and industry insiders have been rethinking the New York Fashion Week format more than ever over the past couple of seasons, with many designers questioning the value of taking part at all. Runway shows and presentations are expensive and time consuming, and the ROI is debatable. Still, there are few better ways for a new designer (or an established brand that had abstained from showing) to create buzz, so long as their PR teams are able to wrangle enough editors and buyers to take time out of their busy schedules to (potentially) take in some undiscovered talent.

From a major retail chain and a Kanye West collaborator to a number of hip streetwear brands and eyewear labels, read on for 19 designers who are showing at New York Fashion Week for the first time in the coming week.

Carleen

Brooklyn-based Kelsy Parkhouse founded Carleen in 2012 with a collection of re-patchworked antique quilts. Today, her domestically produced designs still have a handmade, mixed-and-matched feel while looking modern and wearable.
Show date: Tuesday, Sept. 6.

Heron Preston

Trying to explain who Heron Preston is could take up its own article (and it has), but let's just say he's worked with Nike, Kanye West (on Yeezy), Virgil Abloh and more, has an e-commerce marketplace, and is now collaborating with the New York City Department of Sanitation (yes, the real DSNY) on a collection of “merchandise and workwear essentials” made from upcycled clothing and donated DSNY uniforms. It's called, simply, Uniform, and guests will be able to pre-shop the collection during the evening presentation. (We hear Kim Kardashian will make an appearance.) More collections will be unveiled throughout the year.
Show date: Wednesday, Sept. 7.

God Save Queens

Based in Poland, God Save Queens is a sexy lingerie and swimwear brand that counts Kylie Jenner among its fans. With an Instagram following of over 100k already, the label, which only sells on its very bare-bones website, is poised for more U.S. exposure.
Show date: Wednesday, Sept. 7.

Moderne


La Garçonne has long been the go-to e-commerce site for in-the-know minimalists with good taste. In 2011, founder Kris Kim launched a women's ready-to-wear line of clean, wearable separates called Moderne; she'll show spring 2017 at La Garçonne's brick-and-mortar store in Tribeca, which opened in 2014. This marks the second season Moderne has done wholesale.
Show date: Thursday, Sept. 8.

Barragan

Barragan used to actually be called YTINIFNINFINITY. Under that name, New York-based designer Victor Barragan staged an under-the-radar, DIY presentation for fall 2016 that he livestreamed on sex webcam site Cam4. For spring 2017, he'll show as part of the more legitimate/high-profile Made Fashion Week, though he'll no doubt find ways to defy convention with his gender-bending, early '00s-inspired clothes.
Show date: Thursday, Sept. 8.

PH5

Launched in New York in 2014 by Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang, PH5 is an innovative knitwear brand that melds Lin's business and manufacturing background — she worked at Deloitte and learned the fashion ropes at her family's apparel manufacturing company in China — with Zhang's design experience; she went to Parsons, won the Parsons x Kering Empowering Imagination Award and has worked for Tabitha Simmons, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Nike.
Show date: Thursday, Sept. 8.

Club Monaco

After J.Crew and Banana Republic, Club Monaco is the latest retail chain to sign up for a spot on the New York Fashion Week calendar with plans for a consumer-facing presentation. The Ralph Lauren-owned brand will show men's and women's fall 2016 clothing, all of which will be shoppable immediately.
Show date: Friday Sept. 9.

Lyz Olko

The woman behind Obesity & Speed — a hip streetwear line that was very cool in downtown NYC during the mid-to-late aughts — launched a new namesake line about a year ago with a focus on sustainable production methods that's made primarily in New York. Her spring 2017 collection, called Watch the Skies, is partly inspired by "The Last Starfighter" and "Stranger Things," and will be shown presentation-style with live performance.
Show date: Friday, Sept. 9.

Oday Shakar

Eveningwear designer Oday Shakar, who has dressed a number of celebrities for the red carpet, is relaunching his line for spring 2017 at NYFW. As for what his renewed vision will look like, we'll have to wait and see.
Show date: Friday, Sept. 9.

Etienne Deroeux

This buzzy French designer first caught our eye in 2014 in Paris, where he typically shows his namesake label. His wearable womenswear designs marry a clear interest in sportswear with a focus on architectural shapes and bold proportions. To uphold quality, he produces everything in France. He'll show in New York for the first time as part of Made Fashion Week.
Show date: Saturday, Sept. 10.

Maison the Faux

As part of Made Fashion Week, Netherlands-based Maison the Faux will show a collection called, um, "Chubby Chaser." The name is presumably meant to be tongue-in-cheek, as the brand describes itself as being "rooted in a great sense of humour and self-mockery, combined with a deep love of fashion." Maison the Faux loosely translates to "the fictional house" (as in, fashion house).
Show date: Saturday, Sept. 10.

Gentle Monster

Korean eyewear brand Gentle Monster is already huge in Asia, and it's making a big push in the U.S., first with a New York store opening in February, and now with its first NYFW presentation as part of Made Fashion Week. The brand has had a presence at fashion week through collaborations with other brands like Opening Ceremony and Hood by Air, but this is its first time going solo.
Show date: Saturday, Sept. 10.

MISBHV

Polish brand Misbhv makes merch-y sweats with gothic lettering, statement outerwear and high-waisted flares. It's mostly oversized and has a streetwear-meets-punk aesthetic that feels very of the moment. The brand will show as part of Made Fashion Week. Rihanna has worn it, naturally.
Show date: Saturday, Sept. 10.

Krewe du Optic

The second buzzy eyewear brand on this list, Krewe du Optic founder Stirling Barrett has not let being based in New Orleans keep his brand from landing on some of the most famous faces (Beyonce, Gigi Hadid, countless street style stars) and in major retailers (Revolve, Nordstrom). In addition to showing in New York for the first time (as part of Made Fashion Week), he's also one of this year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists.
Show date: Sunday, Sept. 11.

Morgan Lane

Another CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, Morgan Lane is a New York-based lingerie and sleepwear brand by Morgan Curtis. The daughter of designer Jill Stuart worked for her mother before launching her own line in 2014. Her designs are cute and feminine without being too fussy, and are already sold by Shopbop, Journelle and more. She'll show as part of Made Fashion Week.
Show date: Sunday, Sept. 11

Verdad

Madonna and Cate Blanchett are among the celebrities who have worn Los Angeles-based Louis Verdad's designs. For spring 2017, he's launching a new brand called Verdad, which we're told is "all about expert tailoring and urban sophistication." It's also all produced in LA and seems to be heavy on denim.
Show date: Monday, Sept. 12.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh

Another New York shop owner whose in-house line has taken off, Maryam Nassir Zadeh's women's ready-to-wear and footwear is inspired by her perspective as an Iranian-born, American-raised woman with family in India and Mexico. Her oft-copied shoes (Mansur Gavriel caught heat for its spring 2016 shoe launch, where pairs of open-toe mules looked very similar to Zadeh's) are a cult favorite among fashion insiders.
Show date: Tuesday, Sept. 13.

Kithland

For spring 2017, New York-based streetwear retailer Kith is launching something called Kithland. We bet it will be cool!
Show date: Tuesday, Sept. 13.

Wesley Berryman

A graduate of Savannah College of Art and Design, Wesley Berryman is the latest name to know in New York's rising unisex fashion scene. His designs are meant to promote self-empowerment and acceptance, with a definite goth vibe that feels very now.
Show date: Wednesday, Sept. 14.

Group shows

VFiles

For its seventh season plucking lesser-known designers from the deep internet and putting them on an international stage, VFiles presents the following designers:

Alessandro Trincone
Ground-Zero
Rushemy Botter
Sanchez-Kane
Song Seoyoon 

Find out more here.
Show date: Wednesday, Sept. 7.

Nolcha shows

Similar to VFiles and Made, Nolcha is another platform for less established designers. This season, 12 have been chosen to show all on the same day in the same venue.

Rohitava Banerjee
Lu Yang
Jody Bell
Minan Wong
ACID NYC
Samantha Leibowitz
Just In Case
Cashmere Song
Syu Syu Han
Nikistavia
NY School of Design
Alice Yim

Find out more here.
Show date: Monday, Sept. 12.

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