There are certain things we can always expect from a Rodarte show: lots of feminine sweetness, some darker, gothic vibes, texture galore, gowns worthy of a Hollywood A-lister and, in the most general sense, plenty of magic. Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy often find inspiration in far-fetched places, so when it comes to deciphering the actual "theme" of each collection, our imaginations sometimes get the best of us.
For spring 2017, we picked up on some prairie inspiration (something Rodarte's touched on before, most notably for fall 2011), with a rock-n-roll attitude mixed in, thanks to heavy metal studded accessories and dresses, fringed leather jackets, safety pin-trimmed trousers and oversized shearling coats worthy of a '60s-era rock goddess.
In reality, the sisters looked to the 1973 Spanish film "Spirit of The Beehive," which centers around two little girls who wander around their Castilian village in search of a monster they saw in a movie. This youthful spirit and sense of fantasy came through in the ruffled pieces adorned with pearls, polka dots and flowers; the honeycomb skirts; the sparkling, hand-beaded chiffon dresses in shades of pink, purple, yellow and black, as well as the finale "pollen" gowns, each featuring a large heart on the bodice. These are certainly the kinds of clothes we would have died to play dress-up in as a child.
Beauty-wise, Rodarte always brings it on the runway. (Remember the pierced brows from spring 2015 and the moody, dark lips from fall 2016?) And over the past few seasons, the Rodarte show has served up some of the most beautiful and creative hair accessories we've seen. For spring 2017 show, hairstylist Odile Gilbert stepped it up in the accessories department — and the results were next-level gorgeous.
"There is no inspiration," said Gilbert (quite refreshingly) of the floral fabric accessories her team created using material left over from the dresses in the collection. "We wanted it to look like 2016, going into 2017. It's just pretty. It's Rodarte." Using fabric from the collection isn't an entirely novel idea; this style in particular is reminiscent of Sam McKnight's ribbon-adorned ponytails from the fall 2014 Chanel show. About three-quarters of the models wore the accessories; each one who did got a minimum of three. "We put the barrettes everywhere, in a very unexpected way," she said in a backstage interview. "We wanted [the placement] to look like a kid did it."
To contrast the gauzy floral adornments (which, in another stylist's hands or another designer's collection may have verged on twee) Gilbert left the hair itself slightly fuzzy. She used a bit of Wella leave-in conditioner, a touch of hair spray and little else for the desired effect. "We dried the hair with a diffuser for a soft, natural finish... It's about keeping the personality of each model; who they are is important," she said.
Click through the gallery below to see every look from the Rodarte spring 2017 collection.