Spring Studios' runway space was crowded and buzzing with energy before the start of Zac Posen's show on Monday night, thanks in large part to a sizable amount of American Express guests — almost half, I would guess, from the designated line outside Spring Studios. It's part of an ongoing partnership between the credit card company and the label. A typically high-profile front row added excitement to the moment, too: Uma Thurman, Jourdan Dunn, Malin Akerman, Crystal Renn and others.
A year ago, Posen told us that his work for Brooks Brothers had inspired him to think differently about daywear in his namesake line, resulting in fewer straight-up ball gowns in his navy, black and white spring 2016 collection — a trend toward elevated but casual looks that continued for fall. This time around, Posen played with color and texture in a collection dominated by daywear and separates, like jacquard top/skort combinations, pastel-colored shirt dresses and geometric florals. He also used bonded cotton to create motorcycle-style jackets and cropped pants. You wouldn't typically associate Posen with motorcycle-style anything, but the pieces fit right alongside the rest of his uptown-woman wardrobe. My favorite pieces were tops that appeared simple from the front but were folded and draped on the open back that curved inward. They reminded me of a beetle's shell.
Much of the eveningwear was knee-length and featured an impressive fabric texture, such as big metallic polka dots or mesh embroidered with glass beads. Almost all of the dresses contained voluminous pleats that started around the hips and either circled the entire body or just extended behind or to the sides of the body. They were lightweight but stiff, and a good reminder that fashion, especially eveningwear, is best viewed in three dimensions.
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