There's something in the water at New York Fashion Week — or perhaps it's more like there's something missing from the water. In a release, Proenza Schouler announced Monday that it would break from the ready-to-wear calendar, starting with its spring 2018 collection.
Going forward, Proenza Schouler will combine its main runway and inter-seasonal collections into one presentation to be shown in July and January, hewing with the Haute Couture calendar. This way, the brand argues, more emphasis at retail will be put back on the runway collections — the "heart and soul of the Proenza Schouler brand" — and giving them a longer shelf life. The growing importance of pre-collections has been an issue plaguing fashion designers for a few years now, which has lead to the rise of inter-seasonal runway spectacles and an increasingly frenzied design calendar; Proenza Schouler will be experimenting with monthly deliveries "representing key groups" from the runways.
Unsurprisingly, that also means the brand will move its runway from New York to Paris for the spring/summer 2018 collection. In this, Proenza Schouler joins Rodarte, which announced a similar switch just last week, as well as French brands Vetements and Kenzo. Proenza Schouler calls the move to Paris a "key initiative" in light of the upcoming launch of its first fragrance with L'Oréal Luxe, about which not much is known. The location of future runways has not yet been decided.
Proenza Schouler will present its fall 2017 collection at NYFW as planned. After that, it joins the growing list of brands abandoning NYFW; Hood By Air, Tommy Hilfiger, Rachel Comey, Rebecca Minkoff and Opening Ceremony are all labels absent from the schedule this season.
Update, 10:30 A.M. 1/30/2017: This post has been updated to reflect that Proenza Schouler will be showing its spring 2018 collection in Paris, and that future locations have not yet been decided.