The British designer was handed the reigns of an American legacy brand in 2013, and he has managed to hew to the brand's history without veering into costume territory. For fall 2017, the Coach person (the brand now shows menswear and womenswear together) was like a cool city teen whose parents moved to a chilly flyover state in the middle of senior year. As the Smashing Pumpkins hit "1979" played, models ambled across the set — a broken down home dropped in the middle of nowhere — picking their way between tumbleweeds and dry, overgrown grass.
But damn, did they look good doing it. The show notes indicate that Vevers found inspiration in "the Great American outdoors" as well as "early New York hip-hop," which translated most obviously into oversize trucker caps made with shearling. By now, Vevers's take on mixed prairie florals has become a signature for Coach; here, they were rendered in deep browns, burnt oranges and navy blues. Horse and cherry motifs were scattered across plaids in matching shades. The shearling jackets, another Coach staple, were quite literally rougher around the edges with a raw-edge finish that was reminiscent of cowhide rugs. The most covetable pieces — at least in this weather — were the oversize puffer coats, styled like varsity jackets or finished in shearling.
Of course, this is Coach, so accessories are key. They did not disappoint: Leather doctor bags were covered in vintage cars or cherry prints. For those in the market for comically small bags, tiny coin purses were adorable additions to purse straps or hung from chains. On the shoe front, Vevers went practical for the season with shearling-lined moonboots.
With Vevers, Coach has succeeded in producing consistently great collections and drawing increasingly packed crowds (seriously, benches and stairs were bursting at Tuesday's show, and we hear editors were shut out when it started at 4:15 — downright early for a fashion show). If that's not enough to convince you the designer has made Coach's turnaround aspirations a reality, perhaps the numbers will. The brand saw double-digit growth at the end of last year, and judging by the reaction to this collection, Coach will likely have more to be happy about come fall.
See the full Coach fall 2017 collection below: