Before we tackle the fall 2017 women's shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, we're jump-starting the fashion train in Denmark for the Nordic Region's largest fashion event, Copenhagen Fashion Week (#CPHFW), currently underway in the nation's capital.
Read on for the looks that caught our attention on the first day of shows, and stay tuned for more until the event wraps up on Friday. Skål!
Copenhagen's fall 2017 season kicked off with Won Hundred, a Copenhagen-based contemporary and denim brand for the city's cool kids. The beautiful show venue — a working theater complete with dainty chandeliers and ornate wall trimmings — played a nice juxtaposition to the clothes, which were edgy, and perhaps overtly Demna Gvasalia-ified, sure, but were more so overtly effortless and Scandinavian. For this collection, creative director Nikolaj Nielsen, who launched the brand in 2004, aligned his pieces with Gvasalia-era Balenciaga: oversize puffer jackets, retro detailing and tracksuits, as pictured above.
This head-to-toe Barney-purple look was only the second that came down the runway, but showgoers ooh-ed and ahh-ed when it did. And this image doesn't do it justice: The gemstone monochrome was so rich up close, with the tracksuit featuring its own glossy, luxurious sheen. Meanwhile, the cherry red "Speedway"-printed wellies paid homage to the cheeky racing theme that was used throughout the collection.
Which brings me to the closing look, in all its Dale Earnhardt-level glory:
The Designers' Nest program is one of the foremost design award showcases in Denmark, as it exists in part due to the patronage of HRH Crown Princess Mary (who was sitting front row and looked precisely as perfect you'd expect a Crown Princess to look). Created to reward skilled and promising fashion students across the Nordic Region, Designers' Nest considers both innovation and versatility when judging its winners. I found this look, which came complete with a billowing train, glossy boots and starched maxi shirt, to be an impressive combination of those two qualities.
Then there was this look, which, from head on, could walk right into the street style scene at any major fashion week and steal the show. The patchwork fur as worn with bootleg jeans and Martiniano-style glove shoes felt as fresh and new as it did recognizable, and perfectly on-trend — a great combination should its designer ever wish to take to market.
Jean // Phillip
Menswear brand Jean // Phillip, founded in Copenhagen in 2007, is about as Scandinavian a label as they come. Its designs are edgy, androgynous and minimalistic, with immaculate tailoring and impressive attention to detail. And while technically pegged as a menswear collection, its pieces — such as these lace-up trousers and roomy black sweater — would resonate just as well with a female customer, certainly in New York. (Not to mention this model's hair, which is everything I want my own to be.)
It's also worth noting that the intimate show took place in what appeared to be a residential building, set up so there were no more than 50 seats placed across the perimeter of the space. It gave showgoers the ability to inspect the pieces up close as they were walked around, allowing us to observe smaller details such as the subtle baby pink lining on the inside of this bomber jacket. In all, this is an outfit I'd wear today if I could.
Disclosure: Copenhagen Fashion Week paid for my travel and accommodations to attend and cover the event.