Before we tackle the fall 2017 women's shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, we're jump-starting the fashion train in Denmark for the Nordic Region's largest fashion event, Copenhagen Fashion Week (#CPHFW), currently underway in the nation's capital.
Read on for the looks that caught our attention on the first day of shows, and stay tuned for more until the event wraps up on Friday. Skål!
The day opened with Cecilie Bahnsen, a contemporary womenswear label headed up by the designer of the same name. Cutting her teeth at the Royal College of Art in London, Bahnsen's experience is visibly quite accelerated; she taps into more traditional clothing methods like quilting, patchwork and appliqué and repurposes them for modern Scandinavian use. This look was about as ethereal as they come, working with stark white textures and incorporating heavy knits. It's no wonder she won the Danish Design Talent's Magazine Prize, Denmark's largest fashion price, just this past October.
Founded in Scandinavia in 2013, Tonsure comes courtesy of designer Malte Flagstad, a Central Saint Martins graduate and former Maison Martin Margiela talent. The menswear label works heavily in furs and skins, incorporating even the smallest pieces into easy vests, as pictured above, heavy coats and sleek jackets. I loved this bright candy apple green color — it really livened up an otherwise muted runway — but the leather Crocs were... a different story.
Baum und Pferdgarten
Next up was Baum und Pferdgarten, a popular, quirky contemporary label launched by Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave in 1999 that's available in 20 countries worldwide. "Baum," as it's more simply known, always incorporates a touch of whimsy into its collections, fall 2017 being no different. These checkered flares came early in the runway show — which was packed with a who's who of Danish bloggers, editors and general influencers — and I couldn't stop thinking about them. It didn't hurt they were styled with fishnet socks, the "It" Instagram accessory of the moment.
I'm all here for a good model casting moment. Freya Dalsjø — which the designer of the same name founded in Copenhagen in 2012 — built her entire model roundup for her fall 2017 show from her friends, incorporating women of all walks of life; age diversity was especially prevalent here. Her designs are sharp and architectural, building upon feminine cornerstones but not relying too heavily on what has previously made women tick. This look was architectural in all the right ways and styled to perfection, catering to many situations.
As one of the more well-known labels showing at CPHFW, Ganni drew a large crowd to a large, stark warehouse far from the city's center. (Similar to Alexander Wang showing at the Brooklyn Navy Yard: If you build it, they will come.) This collection was playful and easy-to-wear, complete with breezy, cheeky dresses (like above), pant and sweater sets, skirts, blouses and cozy, delightful sweaters. Ganni is big on catering to and emphasizing it's shoppers's individuality, and I thought this dress — which could be worn for a myriad occasions — did a great job of highlighting that.
In terms of original, consistent collections, Lala Berlin's took the cake on Wednesday. The brand — which communicates the aesthetics of the German capital — comes approved by Suzy Menkes and gives the contemporary category's familiar metropolitan silhouette new colors, add-ons and constructions. This sweater was a good summation of Lala Berlin's most recognizable characteristics, with the tiered tassels giving the garment some punch. And creative elements aside, the presentation was powerful, too, with Tehran-born designer Leyla Piedayesh coming out for the finale holding a sign that read "I'm an Immigrant," an important, momentous message that received a standing ovation.
As one of the Danish designers with the most commercial reach outside the Nordic Region, Ivan Grundahl's work finds international success due in part to two main reasons, the first being that brand's pieces are well-crafted and avant-garde, delivering some architectural shock value alongside seamless construction. Second, of course, is courtesy of his aesthetic, which is about as quintessentially Scandinavian as one could gather. This collection was cool, interesting and effortless, and mixed uneven silhouettes with clean-cut knits, as seen with this oversized, bunched houndstooth set.
Disclosure: Copenhagen Fashion Week paid for my travel and accommodations to attend and cover the event.