Before we tackle the fall 2017 women's shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, we're jump-starting the fashion train in Denmark for the Nordic Region's largest fashion event, Copenhagen Fashion Week (#CPHFW), currently underway in the nation's capital.
Read on for the looks that caught our attention on the first day of shows, and stay tuned for more until the event wraps up on Friday. Skål!
Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Once described to me as the "Oscar de la Renta of Copenhagen," Mark Kenly Domino Tan cut his teeth at Copenhagen's acclaimed Kolding School of Design and London's Royal College of Art, followed by stints at Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen and Sonia Rykiel. He launched his own label in 2012 and won the National H&M Award not long after. And while his line only debuted at CPHFW for spring 2014, he's already royalty approved: he's often worn by Princess Mary, the Crown Princess of Denmark. Which is to say, his pieces are the real deal, immaculately constructed and representative of a broader Scandinavian aesthetic and lifestyle. The colors used with this look — the soft lavender sheen paired with caramel and black — were pleasantly unexpected, and that's just why I liked it so much.
This look closed the show, with Alexander Wang-for-Balenciaga vibes in the champagne monochrome, sheer legs and asymmetrical sweater. But it's not too close for comfort: The richness of the sweater and the elegance of the pants felt completely fresh on the runway, as well as in line with the rest of the collection. And oh, the runway: it was set in an all-pink retail store, complete with exposed light bulbs, crazy-high ceilings and some of the best furniture I've ever seen all in one place and not in a museum. These Danes do show venues well.
By Malene Birger
As one of the most recognizable brands from the Nordic Region, designer Malene Birger's CPHFW event was one of the most hotly anticipated of the week. This season, she revved up the edgy, sophisticated silhouettes that define her creative aesthetic to include suedes, leathers and furs in shades like inky blue, deep purple and some very robust reds. The above look opened her runway show — set inside a bright, cold warehouse filled to the brim with showgoers — and I couldn't stop thinking about it for the rest of the day; it may be one of my favorite individual looks of all of CPHFW.
I overheard a woman at the show discussing how Birger really knows how to both outfit the female figure — how to flatter and fit — and make a woman feel her strongest and sexiest as well. This collection encapsulated that idea, churning out look-after-look of beautiful, well-produced pieces that toed the line between conceptual and commercial. The above was great; I really loved the way the satin of the boots looked against the shimmer of the sweater and leggings and in that midnight blue, too.
The day closed out with Copenhagen- and London-based designer Astrid Andersen's womenswear debut, set at an art gallery on a quiet residential block just along the riverbank. I had high hopes for the show as soon as I saw the show space, followed by those inside: All of Copenhagen's cool-kids had seemed to convene under one roof for the occasion, trading Gucci loafers for dirtied Vans. Andersen usually shows her men's apparel in London, so her return to Copenhagen was received with an appropriate level of excitement. The clothes lived up to the hype: Each look embodied the casual, sports-inspired vibe — as seen with the striped waist of this asymmetrical skirt — that made her men's line so successful.
It's difficult to make a tracksuit that's so sporty in concept, but comes down the runway looking like the most luxurious thing in the room. Velvet was incorporated throughout the entire show and made the whole collection feel incredibly rich as a result. I'd wear every single item in this look, either alone or as the full outfit, for just about any occasion. (Plus, it looked dope with those white Nikes, too.)