Hong Kong native Ryan Lo collaborated with Hello Kitty for his Fall 2017 collection, a super-saccharine outing inspired by "pop culture and childhood nostalgia." Pretty much everything was pink, as you might imagine, with oversize silhouettes that called to mind a child in too-big clothes. Large pearl buttons added another layer of detail on dresses or shirts. The knits were the real stars, though — both literally, on account of the star print splashed across them, and figuratively, because they were the most wearable.
Jasper Conran's elegant proceedings at Claridges didn't quite match his collection, which was his take on slightly sexy separates. The designer experimented with sheers and cutouts for a collection with an androgynous, youthful edge. One gets the feeling that perhaps Conran is more comfortable with more womanly pieces, as while this collection was certainly fine, it left a bit to be desired in terms of inspiration.
For Fall 2017, Edeline Lee found inspiration in artist Hannah Hock. That Dadaist source lent itself to lots of uneven layering, buttons and detailing that suggested breasts, and bright pops of color against neutrals. Lee clearly has a talent for tailoring, as her midi-skirts and outerwear were perfect in silhouette. Stripped away of the artistic touches, these were pieces perfect for any modern woman's closet.
Markus Lupfer wants you to know there are no rules for dressing come fall, at least not where he's concerned. Mainly, it's about mixing the menswear inspired pieces you own, like his plaid suiting or shearling outerwear, with the feminine, like pleated or sequined florals. It's entirely possible you were doing that before, but you weren't doing it with this polar bear print, which was truly fantastic.
Dominic Jones made his debut as creative director of jewelry brand Astley Clarke with three different collections. While they were all stunning, it was "Astronomy," inspired by (you guessed it) the solar system that was the most unique; especially cool were the Earth earrings with mini "moons" made from pearls.
Already profiled by WWD and the New York Times, recent Central Saint Martins MA grand and young American designer Michael Halpern is being tagged as one to watch. Surely, some of that comes from having dressed Beyoncé and worked alongside Donatella Versace, but most of it comes from the fact that Halpern is quite simply talented. His disco-inspired Fall 2017 marks his very first fashion show, though you wouldn't guess it. Halpern plays with color in a way that makes his sequined jumpsuits feel fresh, and it will be interesting to see what he will do with his hype.
Simone Rocha is one of the hottest tickets in London, and it should be fairly obvious now as to why that's the case. Just in case it wasn't, though, Rocha sent out an incredibly strong collection for Fall 2017. Military-inspired pieces came with feminine touches, like embellished collars and plush fur wraps. Rocha's signature sheer dresses came in mixed florals with fur ties. Her casting solidified the message, with women of literally all ages hitting the runway.
The collection was so moving and beautiful, it's impossible to pick just one standout look. This was one of Rocha's strongest showings to date, and it should solidify her presence not only in London, but on the national fashion stage.
House of Holland
Henry Holland's quirky, hip-hop infused take on Western wear had a lot to love, from the stripes and checkers to the finale dresses with stars made from fringe. It's entirely possible I have spent too much time on the internet, but I'm in love with this pink-checkered sweatshirt that says, "Daddy," especially when paired with a metallic collar and a patent leather skirt.
The audience was buzzing about whether Riccardo Tisci, tipped to take over at Versace, would be in the front row, or if Zayn Malik and his girlfriend Gigi Hadid would be there again. Well, Tisci and Malik were no shows, but Hadid was there to open. It was pretty much everything we've come to expect from Versus: Super sexy, sleek sportswear, mostly in black and deep reds with neons mixed in. If it ain't broke, don't fix it — but do give the reins to Malik for a bit for a collaboration, which we can't wait until it's May debut to see.