Ciao, Milano! Fashion month is in full swing, and we're racing to keep up at Milan Fashion Week. Read on for the looks we loved from the runways on day four, and click here for even more reviews from the season.
Given the current political climate, is now the time to reconsider the aesthetic of the 1940s wartime femme fatales? Tomas Maier seems to think so, as the Bottega Veneta Fall 2017 runway hearkened back to the sharp shoulders and nipped waists of those ladies. Regardless of whether there was a statement behind it, though, it was a beautiful collection: sexy suiting (for men and women alike), polished outerwear and interesting texture play, from goat hair to matte leathers. A series of liquid metallic dresses were begging to be put directly on a flight to Hollywood for Sunday's Academy Awards.
Antonio Marras can always be counted upon to deliver a beautiful collection, and for Fall 2017, with the collection inspired by botanist Eva Mameli, he also brought a wonderful bit of theatre to the runway. Every handful of looks or so, a pair of dancers from Milan's Teatro della Danza would come out and do a kind of interpretive dance as more models of all ages sauntered past. The drama matched that of the clothes, a collection of rich, dark florals set on thick knits and airy-light chiffons alike. It was hard to know where to look, as patterns layered on top of one another sat several layers deep, but you wanted to take it all in. At the end, Marras exploded on the runway with the dancers racing behind him (and his dog Pierivo, adorably). Friend and gallerist Pasquale Leccese even took a second, joyous lap. Between the clothes and the performance, it was definitely a highlight of the week.
When you see a Missoni collection, you expect to see chevron patterns in bright colors layered together in piles of knits. What you don't expect to see is great suiting — but for Fall 2017, the brand is delivering just that, as well as excellent outerwear. Angela Missoni was clearly thinking of the modern woman, as heels were kept short, layered with socks or tights. It's always refreshing to see a collection that is as practical as it is pretty.
The rumor at Saturday's Jil Sander show was that the Fall 2017 collection would be the last for designer Rodolfo Paglialunga. If it was a swan song, it was a quiet one: The clothes were, well, a little boring. Of course the brand is known for its sleek, simple lines, but there was nothing new to see in the oversize suiting or the long knit dresses. These clothes could have come from anywhere. Looks done in quilting were not particularly flattering on the models — always a red flag.
Agnona is a brand still struggling to find footing in the fashion world — remember that short-lived experiment with Stefano Pilati? — but Fall 2017's collection should bring it one step closer. Designer Simon Holloway put together a covetable, surprisingly cool collection of knits, leathers and fur. These are the kinds of clothes plenty of stylish women are currently wearing to work and play, from midi-length fluted skirts to loose, cropped pants. The heeled boots looked pitched to nearly unmanageable levels, a personal pet peeve of mine, but furry sneakers were a cute, modern touch.
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