As the traditional fashion calendar continues to be annihilated, designers are finding new ways to reinvent their show schedules in a manner that best suits them. The latest is Jason Wu, who will show his Resort 2018 collection on his Spring 2018 runway this September in a show called "Spring One." WWD reports that rather than presenting his latest resort range during the standard late May-early June schedule, the designer will instead streamline his collection into "two key messages per year," with pre-fall also debuting on the fall runway. (A representative for Wu did not immediately respond to our request for comment.)
Wu will have the same amount of product for resort as he did previously, though it will be designed to coordinate with his spring collection. This, he said, is a relief. "I feel so much better," the designer told WWD. "Right now I'm almost done with what I'm going to present to the buyers in two weeks. Generally what would happen is I would just take everything off the inspiration board and start again. This time I feel like I have enough time to make a more compelling story. Because the truth is, who can really design four collections a year in a way that can truly be meaningful?"
It's not exactly new territory for a brand to consolidate its collections in some way — a number of Wu's contemporaries, including Gucci, Vetements, Vivienne Westwood, Bottega Veneta and Public School have combined its men's and women's shows — but it's more unusual to do so with seasons, especially considering how spread out the conventional resort and spring calendars are. (However, there is a precedent: Alexander Wang debuted a number of his Resort 2017 pieces on his Spring 2017 runway in September.) According to WWD, Wu will continue to show the pre-seasons to buyers during the traditional market, so that remains unchanged.
With the fashion calendar changing so rapidly, it's nearly impossible to predict whether this move will be one that other designers will replicate. But if there's one thing all this turbulence has done, it's returning ownership to the designer — so if it works for Wu, it may not work for everyone else. And there's beauty in that chaos.