For the first time ever, Maison Margiela's Fall 2017 couture show on Wednesday was held at the French fashion house's Parisian headquarters — which has also historically served as both a convent and an industrial design school. Sure, there was no custom-built Eiffel Tower replica, but the "artisanal" runway show's history-steeped atmosphere was crafted specifically to highlight the creative design process. The collection itself featured plenty of intricate pleating, gold fabrics, off-kilter embroidery and unusual silhouettes, and those concepts were mimicked in the hair and makeup.
Pat McGrath may have outdone even herself for the occasion, which is truly saying something. As with past Margiela shows, she dreamed a variety of bespoke looks for each model, so no two were the same. Some got bleached brows, while others wore metallic accessories or foil cutouts. In many cases, the lips were the focus — meaning eyes went mostly bare — which made for the perfect opportunity for McGrath to showcase her newest Pat McGrath Labs makeup launch, MatteTrance.
Bella Hadid, above, was transformed for the show, with a rich, matte red lip, gold metal jewelry that gave the illusion of a lip ring, but also traced half of her jaw and gold-painted hair.
Another stand-out look — among a full runway of standout looks — was for Vanessa Moody: The beauty team went all out for the model, who wore bleached brows, dewy skin (courtesy of McGrath's Skinfetish 003) and an epic lip look created by layering MatteTrance in Elson (the rich matte red lipstick from McGrath's new line) under "structured red foil and transparent paper," according to the makeup artist. The top lip is also has an eggplant purple ombré effect that's topped with metallic silver liner extending out from the cupid's bow. Pat, you've outdone yourself.
The hair, too — styled by fashion industry veteran Eugene Souleiman — was show-stealing and full of unexpected materials, colors and silhouettes. Many models, like Hadid, wore slicked-down styles held in place by layers of gold paint. Others, like Moody, received the same treatment, but in a shade of glittery royal blue that created the illusion of an exaggerated center part.
These may not be the hair and makeup looks that everyone will be clamoring to re-create themselves at home, but they're certainly a big part of what makes Paris Couture Week so enrapturing. And, if nothing else, it's always fun to see Pat McGrath top her own past makeup triumphs.