Must Read: Confessions of a Top Casting Director on Runway Diversity, Tracking the Rise of 'Clean' Beauty

Plus, Ralph Lauren's Spring 2018 show will have an unconventional venue.
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Models backstage at Prabal Gurung Fall 2017 show. Photo: Imaxtree. 

Models backstage at Prabal Gurung Fall 2017 show. Photo: Imaxtree. 

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Tuesday.

Confessions of a top casting director on runway diversity 
In anonymous interview with Glossy, a veteran casting director — whose clients include famous French house Lanvin and khaki-loving American brand J. Crew — discusses the lack of diversity on the runway. The absence of multiple ethnicities during fashion month is in part due to top designers who "hoard the models — often with no intention of booking them — and then refuse to release them early enough so they can book other shows," the casting director claims. "These models tend to include the few ethnic girls that are out there — because of their rarity. So, when there are designers who really want to showcase diversity and book multiple ethnicities, they won't be able to — or at least not as much as they'd hoped." {Glossy}

Tracking the rise of "clean" beauty
The next generation of makeup wearers and skin-care aficionados prefers their beauty products to come farm-to-vanity. This consumer demand for "all-natural" products came out of the so-called safe beauty movement that catapulted the word "organic" into our cosmetic — and dietary — vernacular. Organic as a category descriptor soon gave way to a series of earthy, marketable, self-styled labels and descriptors: "green", "botanical", "natural", "eco", "pure" and so on. These labels paint a nice, "tree hugging" picture, but what they actually mean isn't always clear. Which leads us to the current descriptor of the trustworthy beauty space — "clean." Although it means slightly different things to different people, the essential criteria are understood: "Clean means it does not contain ingredients that have been demonstrably linked to harmful health effects," says Blair Lawson, head merchant at Goop. {Business of Fashion}

Ralph Lauren's NYFW show will take place in his garage 
Just when it seems U.S. designers have forgotten their red, white and blue roots — opting for Parisian spectacles instead of Clarkson Square runwaysRalph Lauren has announced that his Spring 2018 show will take place in his Bedford garage. As a brand synonymous with all-American ease and the "American Dream," it's fitting that the new collection will move beyond the white picket fence and into Lauren's world-renowned, automobile-stacked garage. The show will also mark the first time that the designer will show the Ralph Lauren Purple Label menswear alongside the women's collection. The show will continue the "see now, buy now" strategy, but his 1938 Bugatti Atlantic and 1929 Bentley Blower will not be for sale following the presentation. {WWD}

Retailers are increasing lobby spending during Trump administration
Some of the biggest merchants in the U.S., including AmazonTarget and Nike, spent significantly more on lobbying in the first six months of 2017 than they had in the previous year. The industry has almost uniformly lined up against the Border Adjustment Tax, which was first floated last year by the House of Representatives and would see additional tariffs imposed on imported goods. However, other issues backed by companies like Amazon ranged from tax reform to net neutrality, as well as privacy, cybersecurity and immigration. {WWD}

Helmut Lang announces its first initiatives under the new editorial direction of Isabella Burley
Champion of minimalism Helmut Lang announced a slew of new projects on the horizon under the direction of the brand's first-ever Editor-in-Residence, Isabella Burley. As a part of its new digital identity, the label will launch a new campaign photographed by Ethan James Green. The images will feature an intergenerational cast of progressive thinkers, new faces and creative icons such as trans model — Dara, South Sudanese-British model and designer — Alek Wek, founder of Hood By AirShayne Oliver and more. In addition, the brand is working on "Helmut Lang Re-Edition" — the re-issuing of important heritage Helmut Lang pieces and "Seen by: The Artist Series" — a year-long activation featuring twelve visual artists, and "The Helmut Lang Design Residency" — an ongoing initiative in which a new generation of creatives collaborate with the brand on a capsule collection. See some images from the new campaign below.{Fashionista Inbox}

Adidas Originals and Alexander Wang return for Season 2 of their unisex collaboration 
Adidas Originals and Alexander Wang are coming together again to offer up a new dose of unisex apparel and footwear. Season 2 is inspired by a tribe of New York bike messengers, which are depicted in an accompanying narrative film campaign directed by Ryan Staake. The film introduces a tribe of masked bike messengers seen moving all over New York to symbolize a youthful spirit of freedom. The collection will launch July 29th and you can watch the campaign video below. {Fashionista Inbox}

Savannah College of Art and Design will premiere U.S. solo Guo Pei exhibition
The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) will open the first U.S. solo museum exhibition of designs by Chinese couturier Guo Pei, the woman responsible for the now-iconic imperial gold cape worn by Rihanna to the Met Gala in 2015. The Beijing-based designer has spent nearly two decades orchestrating fantastical, unrestrained creations that pair high fashion with her cultural heritage. This landmark exhibition will display more than 30 of the designer's most exquisite and show-stopping gowns — including Rihanna's yellow fur-trimmed gown. The exhibition will open on Sept. 7 at SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film in Atlanta, Ga. {Fashionista Inbox}

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