Season after season, I go backstage at many of the most anticipated New York Fashion Week shows, only to have the makeup team tell me they're doing a no-makeup-makeup look. Now, as a minimalist myself, I can appreciate this. But for Spring 2018, makeup took a shinier turn.
Magpie eyes (magpeyes?) — which incorporate some element of shiny, sparkly, blinged-out-ness — were spotted across many major runways. Be it the tonal crystals dotted along models' lower lash lines at Jeremy Scott, the vertical stripes of glitter that adorned models' eyes at Anna Sui or the gold leaf liner spotted at Zimmermann, the Spring 2018 runways were full of the prettiest, glint-y metallic eye makeup accents.
In most cases, these accents were the result of thinking outside the makeup bag. Makeup artists turned to multimedia cosmetics, like the aforementioned crystals or the cellophane (created by taking a hole punch to a sheet of the reflective material) at Chromat to lend a bit of unexpected shine to the look.
At Chromat, where there were multiple different makeup looks, makeup artist Fatima Thomas for MAC called the cellophane-in-place-of-eye-highlighter look "bright and reflective" as well as "soft-edged." "It's still that feminine strength you expect from Chromat," she noted. To get the tiny cellophane sequins to stick in place, she and her team relied on Duo Lash Glue.
For Jeremy Scott's Spring 2018 show, makeup artist Kabuki created a look with "minimalistic and fresh makeup with a shiny, futuristic twist." While most of the face was, indeed, kept neutral, she and her team applied three crystals — each carefully chosen, based on skin tone — beneath each model's eyes for "monochromatic adornment."
For Zimmermann, the look was slightly more traditional, with a simple eyeliner shape in a reflective gold-leaf finish, which served as the perfect foil (pun intended) to the romantic, undone hair look.
Pat McGrath got in on the magpie action, too: For the Anna Sui show, she created reflective, sparkly stripes that ran vertically down the model's upper and lower lids. (The pigment was a combination of three hues from McGrath's new makeup collection: Astral Ghost Orchid in Mothership II: Sublime Palette; Astral White in Mothership I: Subliminal Palette; and Pale Gold 002 in Mothership I: Subliminal Palette — all launching on Sept. 16.) Despite the otherworldly product names, the look was, in fact, inspired by hippie and cult culture of the '60s.
"It's definitely the Summer of Love experience," said McGrath backstage. "We have a beautiful little stripes of glitter... We're using a little bit of [Elizabeth Arden] Eight Hour Cream and using that to stick the pigment to the eyes." As for the "cult" reference, she was quick to note that it was more "Godspell" than "Manson;" I asked specifically about the latter. "Everything's happy, don't worry. Just like life today," she laughed.
Click through the gallery below for a closer look at the shiniest, glintiest, most mesmerizingly glimmery eye makeup looks from the Spring 2018 runways.
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