Last March, Maria Grazia Chiuri debuted her sophomore ready-to-wear collection for Dior in which each look, all 68 of them, was navy. It was, in theory, a noble concept. But Cathy Horyn, for one, noted that the range fell flat, writing that the show's all-navy focus seemed to exist "for no apparent reason," and other major critics were disposed to agree. But that was almost a year ago now, and with Dior's latest Spring 2018 couture collection for the French house, Chiuri has adopted a new color theme — this time, in black and white.
At Dior's most recent couture presentation at the Musée Rodin in Paris on Monday, a vast majority of the show's 72 looks came in some semblance of black and white, with the exception of several red-carpet-worthy gowns toward the end of the runway lineup in lavender, gunmetal, olive and a spectrum of neutrals. Dior's much-referenced New Look silhouette was present in the French house's Bar jackets, cigarette pants and heavy-looking structural gowns, in all one hue or the other.
Though Dior's New Look debuted in 1947, Chiuri very clearly looked to the mod art and culture of a decade or two later for further inspiration. A series of checkered patterns, polka dots and architectural swirls made their way onto skirts, coat dresses and more gowns, popping against the checkered floor tiles that were popular in the late-1940s. The whole venue, in fact, was rather surrealist: Dramatic white curtains draped the walls, while enormous Hitchcock-esian bird cages and equally large white anatomical sculptures hung from the ceiling. It was striking, and a far cry from Dior's recent couture extravaganzas in the grasslands and an enchanted forest — as well as a far cry from its all-navy fuss, too.
See the full Spring 2018 haute couture collection from Dior in the gallery below.