Since John Galliano's debut for Maison Margiela in 2015, the designer has been finding ways to honor the design signatures of the the avant-garde fashion house (and his own) while ushering in a new era of luxury. (At Vogue's Forces of Fashion last fall, he called this idea "décortiqué.") Galliano is obviously no stranger to this concept, but in the age of Instagram and iPhone screens, he's stepped up to the challenge of creating clothes for the plugged-in consumers of today and beyond. It's a sartorial theme that has been slowly coming to life in previous collections: In September, his deconstructed takes on the trench coat, on workwear and on evening looks came with quirky, travel-friendly details, like airport tags and in-flight neck pillows — a getting-dressed-on-the-go type of glamour.
For his Spring 2018 couture collection, which debuted on Wednesday in Paris, Galliano explored "relaxed glamour" with trippy holography, PVC and snow gear-inspired styles. Audience members were encouraged to turn their phone's camera flash on, resulting in digital photos of rainbow-tinged outerwear and apparel that otherwise appeared as solid colors to the naked eye. Dresses, trench coats and bustiers were also made from neon or clear PVC. And as for the next sporty subculture that the fashion world is riffing on, Galliano is looking toward the slopes. Clunky sneakers were adorned with snowboard bindings, while winter-ready anoraks were transformed into belted coats and evening gowns.
See Margiela's full Spring 2018 Haute Couture collection in the gallery below.