If any designer is going to convince an entire cohort of models to majorly change up their looks, it's Marc Jacobs. (Fine, and also Alexander Wang, but that's another story from another season.) For his Fall 2018 runway show, the designer enlisted the help of Redken Global Creative Director, hairstylist Guido Palau and Global Color Creative Director, colorist Josh Wood to create striking geometric haircuts inspired by the classic '60s Vidal Sassoon aesthetic and vivid, punk-y colors that paid homage to the '80s club scene.
In the three days leading up to the show, a stunning nine models — Anya Lyagoshina, Mila Stomatova, Nika Cole, Sara Soric, Sarah Abney, Songwha Oh, Zu Czemier, Veronika Vilim and Nora Vai — received dramatic hair makeovers of both the cut and color varieties. While each look was distinct from the next, the common thread was precision.
"The cuts are kind of based from Sassoon — sort of like the '60s, the five-point and all of the other cuts he did, which I thought looked great again with Marc's clothes," said Guido in a pre-show interview backstage. "Marc liked the idea of having just a few girls with these extreme cuts and colors. So we're very lucky that the girls agreed to do it, and really, it's Josh who has kind of amped up the fashion point of view with the color. It's amazing how color can kind of bring you to a new kind of style."
The word "geometric" was used by both Guido to describe the haircuts and Wood in reference to the color, which included strips of neon shades peeking out from beneath black, ultra-shiny layers. The color transformations involved between four and six processes for each model, according to Wood, who credited the technology of the Redken products he'd used with helping yield such intense hues on such a tight schedule.
"There was a conversation about the fact that this girl could look like she'd been lit in a night club, so [the effect of the color is] kind of like neon or strobe lighting," said Wood. "I worked really closely with Marc; you will — I hope — always see a reflection of the hair color in the fabric and a reflection of the fabric in the hair."
While the hair team certainly had its work cut out for these drastic transformations, there wasn't a whole lot for them to do with the remainder of the model lineup, who had their hair neatly tucked away under scarves and wide-brimmed hats. "There was this feeling that maybe the viewer would look at this collection as a whole and wonder if maybe the same styles were under the hats," said Wood. As for how the creative team landed on the number nine? "Four would have been token, 15 would have been like, 'Is it a hair show or is it a fashion show?' So nine felt like a good number," he explained.
The vibrant tones that appeared in hair color were also integral to the makeup and nails, with the beauty look coming together in a cohesive celebration of rich, matching jewel tones. "This season Marc wants to celebrate fashion and how people put themselves together, create a character, from the shoes to the hats. Makeup is one of the accessories, so we wanted to create a look that reflected that," said makeup artist Diane Kendal.
For Kendal, that meant a focus on the eyes: Using a range of nine jewel-toned glitter eye shadows from the forthcoming Marc Jacobs Beauty Holiday 2018 collection, she created an exaggerated, horizontal shape. "We wanted to take it into the hairline and make it very strong. By extending it out, you get to see more color than if it was just on the lid," explained Kendal. As with the hair color, the specific shade of each model's glitter was intentional, coordinated to the hue that peeked out from beneath the brims of the hats.
To make sure each model's eyes stood out under all that glitter, Kendal and her team piled on black eyeliner and mascara (Marc Jacobs Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner in Blacquer 42, Magic Marc'er Precision Pen Waterproof Liquid Eyeliner in Blacquer and Velvet Noir Major Volume Mascara) and created groomed, full —but not overly exaggerated — brows. The remainder of the makeup look was minimal, with a focus on creating "fresh," even skin (courtesy of Marc Jacobs's new Shameless Foundation) and muting each model's natural lip color with a bit of foundation there, as well.
What manicure pairs best with shiny, jewel-toned color and shiny, jewel-toned eye shadow? Yep, you guessed it: A shiny, jewel-toned one, of course. Again, the number nine came into play with the nail look, created by Jin Soon Choi. "Marc wanted to have dark, jewel-toned colors to [lend] major contrast... to show off the models' skin," she said of the look, for which she relied on a forthcoming limited-edition Marc Jacobs Beauty collection of nine polishes in hues like emerald, amethyst, blackened ruby and deep navy.
Click through the gallery below to see more backstage photos.
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