Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's The Row remains a favorite across the entire fashion month calendar. This is especially true now, as the luxury label's chief contemporary in both style and construction — Phoebe Philo's Céline — may very well cease to exist as we know (and love) it upon Hedi Slimane's debut next month. And come the forthcoming Spring 2019 season, there will be even more buzz surrounding the infamously exclusive brand, and for one very good reason: It's launching its first menswear collection, coming as soon as this fall.
In a release provided to Fashionista on Monday, the New York-based label announced that The Row's men's offering "echoes the dedication to craftsmanship, exceptional fabrics and fine tailoring" already present in its womenswear and accessory collections (the latter of which landed the designers a CFDA Fashion Award for Accessory Designer of the Year this past June). And as menswear revenues are expected to outpace those of the womenswear market in the years ahead, the Olsens's timing couldn't be better.
Despite this being The Row's first official, permanent men's line, this is not its first foray into the category. "We did one menswear capsule collection many years ago, and in 2016 launched a retail menswear capsule," said Ashley in a statement. "It was imperative that we received our customers' feedback and to approach this collection thoughtfully at our pace." In a sense, menswear has been part of The Row's DNA since the very beginning: The designers named the brand after Savile Row, an iconic street in London known for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men.
Aesthetically, the collection will include several nods to the more relaxed suiting made popular in the 1980s and 1990s, as well as less bespoke pieces like shirting, knitwear, denim and tees:
This premiere collection centers around the classic suit with updated modern details. Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen combine the refinement of a classic bespoke experience with the precise minimal masculine style of New York specific to the 80s and the 90s. The construction within these pieces is what defines the incomparable and unique tailoring. The collection incorporates light floating hand stitched canvas, constructed in many different layers, in order for each piece to feel light but strong. The single-breasted suit silhouette defines an important part of the collection — cut without back vents, allowing the piece to be worn relaxed. Trousers have a long rise and straight leg, a shape this is not currently common in the market, with a waistband constructed by hand and a seat seam that is machine stitched and hand stitched. In addition to the suiting, the collection offers a range of core foundation pieces to build upon within any wardrobe including a selection of coats, jackets, shirting, knitwear, denim, and t-shirts.
The tailored pieces are made in Japan "in order to achieve minimal luxurious construction" with traditional European hand-stitch techniques; the shirting is produced in France, the knitwear in Italy and the denim and T-shirts here in the U.S.
"The Row's womenswear began without doing any press during its conception, sold with select wholesale partners," said Mary-Kate. "It's important for us to do the research. We want to be able to offer the menswear market those same core foundation pieces at a luxury level."
The Row's men's collection will be available in The Row retail stores and through select wholesale partners globally this October.