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Must Read: What Generates the Most Buzz at Fashion Week, Why Retailers Overlook the In-Betweeners

Plus, Christian Siriano removes pieces from his Fall 2019 collection after being called out by Diet Prada.
Phones at the Tadashi Shoji Fall 2019 show. Photo: Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Tadashi Shoji

Phones at the Tadashi Shoji Fall 2019 show. Photo: Nicholas Hunt/Getty Images for Tadashi Shoji

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Wednesday.

What generates the most buzz at fashion week
Last season, Ralph Lauren and Victoria Beckham had two of the most talked about shows. According to a report by Launchmetrics, they succeeded in generating so much buzz because they invested heavily in their own social media channels and didn't over-rely on influencers. "Designers underestimate the value of their owned media and what that can do to bring value to their shows," said Launchmetrics Chief Marketing Officer Alison Bringé. "The first priority should be to build a strong brand on their own channel." {Business of Fashion

Why retailers overlook the in-betweeners 
A growing number of retailers have extended their size ranges to accommodate women who need plus sizes or a petite fit, but those who fall into the zone known as "in-between" sizes, which range from roughly size 10 to 14, are still being overlooked. It's more time- and cost-effective to manufacture clothes from one pattern — often a sample size of 2 or 4 — and there are only a finite number of sizes that one can make from a pattern before it gets distorted and fit becomes a major problem. Therefore, most straight-size designers will stop at size 10 or 12, and plus retailers will begin at a bigger size to service the full plus range up to a size 26, effectively leaving out the in-betweeners.  {Vox

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Christian Siriano removes pieces from his Fall 2019 collection after being called out by Diet Prada
Christian Siriano is pulling two gowns from his recent Fall 2019 show, after being called out for copying designs from Valentino's Spring 2018 couture show by Diet Prada. Siriano was quick to respond to the watchdog account, commenting on the post: "Yea wow last time I have this designer in my studio make a dress. Agree, it's pulled." The designer then told WWD that he doesn't look at collections and "had no idea what they were even referencing." {WWD

How the job of a photographer has changed at NYFW
NYFW has become decentralized, fashion shows have become more about creating boomerang-able Instagram spectacles and influencers are now VIPs. All these factors have contributed to the changing job of a NYFW photographer, who used to just set up shop at Bryant Park and photograph easy-to-spot celebrities sitting in the front row. Now, the experimental show venues have sent photographers lugging around their equipment from Brooklyn to Rockefeller Plaza, where they then often have a difficult time getting an appropriate shot of each look given the unique structure and lighting of the venue. {Glossy

Kering is on the hunt for acquisitions to round out its luxury portfolio
At a press conference on Tuesday, Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault and other senior group executives conveyed their readiness to add labels to their luxury portfolio, after a year of purging the group of non-core brands, like Puma. "Fashion and leather goods is still the sector in which we are the most active," Pinault said. "We have the means and now, on top of that, we have platforms that allow us to transition acquisitions very rapidly into the value creation phase." It is rumored that Kering has been eyeing Valentino and Salvatore Ferragamo, but the luxury conglomerate has yet to comment on either. {WWD

Black Design Collective established to help address issues surrounding inequality 
A group of Black designers have created a new organization called Black Design Collective to provide resources, mentorship, an e-commerce platform and business opportunities. Based in Los Angeles, the organization is led by designers Angela Dean and Kevan Hall, who serve as president and vice president, respectively; TJ Walker, one of the original founders of Cross Colours, and costume designer Ruth Carter. {WWD

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