On Wednesday, Maison Margiela Creative Director John Galliano showed his Fall 2019 collection for the French house in Paris on a stark-white runway. The clothing relied on inventive silhouettes and a mostly dark, neutral color palette, with several bright flashes of print and color scattered throughout. And while the Margiela runway is often home to some of the most artful, unexpected hair and makeup looks of fashion month, this season, it mimicked the collection itself in that it was mostly restrained and subdued — minimalist, even — but with strange, interesting elements woven throughout.
Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman slicked the hair down to models' heads, creating a variety of wet-looking styes with glassy, gleaming finishes. Several models wore ponytails — either with deep side parts or no parts at all — while others had buzz cuts, short bobs and blunt bangs.
Music from "Swan Lake" accompanied models down the runway, and so it was apt that ballet-adjacent headpieces (made from either feathers, paint or a combination of both) in black or white also showed up on three male models: Marco Torri, Arthur Varkovastov and Malick Bodian.
While none of the colorful feathers, ribbons or sculptural headpieces that have been integral to the hair look on recent Margiela runways were present, a bit of hair color did make an appearance on at least one model, Charika Shanti Maximus, via a bright-red streak — which looked almost painted on — that extended down from the crown on the back of the head.
The makeup by Pat McGrath showed a similar kind of minimalism and restraint, with many of the models appearing to go makeup-free, save for a bit of the artist's patented ethereal glow, courtesy of Pat McGrath Labs highlighter. A few models, however, received capital-L Looks: Some wore shaky zig-zags of black eyeliner on the inner corners of their eyes, with horizontal lines extending into the hairline.
The models with the "Swan Lake" caps wore the most striking makeup in the entire show, though. Evocative of Natalie Portman's now-iconic makeup in "Black Swan," these models' looks included sharp, angular lines extending from their eyes and eye brows and a heavy rim of black pencil.