Season after season, the Marc Jacobs runway serves as a platform for some of the most boundary-pushing, avant-garde, unexpected hair and makeup looks — for better or worse. But for the designer's Fall 2019 show, the boundary-pushing, avant-garde, unexpected beauty look was, really, the absence of one.
Recent Marc Jacobs runways have included buzz cuts, inky black dye jobs and Easter egg hair; this season, the designer instructed hairstylist Guido Palau to aim for the polar opposite of those. "There's not much hair this season. As you know, we're very heavy-handed sometimes with our hairdos and colors and things, but this time it's very light, and Marc was talking about real beauties, real simplicity," he said in a backstage interview. Most of the models wore knit beanies with feathers, the handiwork of milliner Stephen Jones, who was also behind the colorful scarves from Jacobs's Spring 2018 show.
While styling of any kind — and therefore, the use of hot tools and products — was kept to a striking minimum, Guido and his team did mist a bit of Redken Triple Dry 15 hairspray on the hair, aiming to create a "soft, clean" finish for what strands did peek out beneath the accessories. Not every model wore a hat, however; several models wore their hair simply parted with a bobby pin holding it in place on one side.
"The clothes are very done and grand and important, so we've left the girls feeling easier about that in the hair and makeup," said Guido. "It has a nonchalance and sophistication in its ease."
The no-makeup makeup look created by Diane Kendal focused mainly on perfecting models' skin, which was fitting, since Marc Jacobs Beauty also chose the show to announce its first-ever skin-care product, the intriguingly named Youthquake Gel Crème Moisturizer, debuting in June of 2019.
"The inspiration for the show is iconic dressing, so we're just doing really gorgeous skin, using the new moisturizer Youthquake, which is a really great cream," said Kendal backstage. She and her team used a few other yet-to-be-launched complexion products — a concealer stick and blurring powder — to even out models' skin tones and create an even, radiant finish that was neither too shiny nor too matte. In lieu of blush, Kendal dabbed two different pink lip shades on models' cheeks: the brand's Le Marc Liquid Lip Crayon in Send Nudes for medium and dark skin tones and New Nudes Sheer Gel Lipstick in In the Mood for fair tones. Finally, she coated models' lips with Marc Jacobs Lip Lock Moisture Balm SPF 18, which she also blended over the cheekbones as a makeshift, super-subtle highlighter.
In keeping with the no-makeup makeup theme, manicurist Jin Soon Choi kept nails bare, merely buffing them to a high-shine finish in what she called the "Anna Wintour manicure" — in other words, the look for women who are too busy to sit around waiting for their polish to dry.
It was a rare and uncharacteristic showing of beauty restraint from the designer who so often indulges in whimsical, playful, meaning-laden hair and makeup. But it also signaled a confidence in the collection, allowing the clothes and accessories (and the models wearing them) to bring personality to the runway.
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