New York Fashion Week may have gone through some ups and downs over the past few years, but regardless of any industry upheaval, a substantial group of designers chooses to get involved for the first time, each and every season.
Fall 2019 NYFW begins Thursday and will include a diverse range of newcomers: There's a recent Parsons grad (and even a current student); international talent from Amsterdam, Vietnam, Japan, Brazil and Milan; a stylist and a former creative director each launching brand-new lines; two gender-bending brands moving over from the men's schedule; and a Tokyo-based up-and-comer whose show is being held by Marc Jacobs.
Read on to meet them all.
Caroline Hu is this season's buzzy recent Parsons MFA grad to watch — she also has an undergrad degree from the prestigious Central Saint Martins. She'll show her second-ever collection (the first being her Spring 2018 graduate collection) with a moving-art installation on Feb. 9. Many of her handmade, dreamy, romantic dresses look like art pieces in their own right.
Meanwhile, Mark Gong is still a senior MFA student at Parsons. His designs so far have an ultra-feminine aesthetic, with his upcoming range drawing from a Western inspiration, featuring items like a hand-stamped leather coat and patchwork dresses. He'll show on Feb. 10.
Aliétte is the new eveningwear line by celebrity stylist Jason Rembert, making its debut on Feb. 13. The line is said to be inspired by the women in his life, which could include actress Issa Rae, who already wore an Aliétte dress on the red carpet this year.
This Milan-based, streetwear-leaning brand is eschewing its home fashion week to show in New York for the first time on Feb. 8. It's part of New Guard Group, a fledgling conglomerate that Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston are also involved in, if that's an indication of the type of crowd that could be in attendance.
Amsterdam-based Reconstruct is designed by a collective comprised of five designers and has shown during NYFW: Men's (using models of all genders) in the past; Feb. 8 will mark its debut on the womenswear calendar. With a multi-functional, sporty sensibility, each of their collections revolve around a theme, with Fall 2019 being dubbed "Remote Control."
Launched 14 years ago by designer João Foltran, John John is a Brazilian men's and women's premium denim brand that sources nearly all of its materials from Italy. It has over 50 stores but not much of a U.S. presence, which it likely hopes to change. It will make its NYFW debut on Feb. 12.
Khaite is an industry-beloved line of luxurious, minimalist wardrobe staples founded by New York-based designer Catherine Holstein. The brand is co-owned by Assembled Brands and is sold by The Line, Net-a-Porter and Matchesfashion.com. While it already has a cult following, a NYFW presence may help introduce it to a wider audience.
Tokyo-based Tomo Koizumi feels like the one newcomer you don't want to miss, if only because Marc Jacobs is putting on his first NYFW show in his Madison Avenue store, and seemingly loaning out his go-to creative collaborators Katie Grand, Pat McGrath and Guido to style and key the debut. With Kaia Gerber pictured on the invitation, there's sure to be top-notch casting as well.
Alessandro Trincone is another designer making his way from the men's to the women's calendar, with his past collection having been pretty genderless and modeled by men and women. His designs are rather conceptual and "out-there," so this won't be a boring one.
Burnett New York
After working behind the scenes as creative director at Dennis Basso for a decade, Emily Burnett is striking out on her own, backed by Sterling McDavid. Billing itself as a women-owned-and-run business, the brand launched for Pre-Fall 2019 and is comprised of tailored, elegant ready-to-wear including cocktail and evening attire.
Already established in his native Vietnam, Nguyen Cong Tri is making his debut on the global stage that is NYFW. His handmade designs are based in a traditional aesthetic with a contemporary twist and incorporate modern techniques like laser-cutting and sequin embellishment. Katy Perry is among the stars who have worn his work.
Phuong My is another Vietnamese fashion darling making her New York debut, and is also known for reinterpreting traditional design, as well as a feminine, hourglass silhouette.
The sister brand to John John, mentioned above, Brazilian label Rosa Cha has been churning out high-end swimwear since 1993, expanding into ready-to-wear more recently. Quintessential Brazilian model Gisele Bündchen has been its face since 2016 and it just opened its first U.S. store in Los Angeles. New Creative Directors Juliana Teixeira and Bia Parente, who were appointed in 2017, are behind what promises to be a sexy NYFW debut on Feb. 13.