Sport is as much a part of Virgil Abloh's brand at Off-White as the hypebeasts who regularly clog the entrance at his shows in Paris hoping to steal a seat. He's established this through his runway presentations — see the "Track and Field"-themed collection he presented for Spring 2019 — as well as his work with Nike and actual athletes, like Serena Williams.
But for Fall 2019, Abloh gave his signature street-smart sportswear a ladylike edge. All of the biggest hits were still there — sneakers, Off-White logos at the tops of turtlenecks, tie-dyed sweatshirts and sweatpants — but alongside them were touches of both polished menswear and eveningwear. A racing jacket was turned into a long, loose coat (worn on the runway by Dilone), and a checkered dress with a high slit was paired with matching booties — pieces that had the sporty feel that Abloh has made his signature, but felt mixed up in ways we haven't seen before from the designer.
Abloh has flirted with super-feminine elements, especially in his Lady Diana-inspired Spring 2018 collection, but not quite like this. The thick, oversized trenches looked to be made of both neoprene and silk at once; satin board shorts were layered over long, lean pants. Blazers got the Abloh treatment, too, freed from their sleeves and stretched to duster lengths or made up in leather trenches. One teal number, featuring a mix of traditional menswear materials and silk, wouldn't be ill-suited for a professional woman looking to jazz up her work wardrobe. (Those board short/pant hybrids and hot pants, though, might be a tougher sell amongst the non-Instagirl set.)
The accessories were hit or miss: Fuzzy pumps looked decidedly more difficult to wear than the puffer bags and tie-dye purses that Abloh fanatics will surely go crazy for. And if his harnesses for Louis Vuitton are becoming a must-have for menswear enthusiasts in the know, his obi belts with contrasting piping are likely to find a dedicated customer base as well. Other items that will surely cause a frenzy among both fuccbois and girls? The fuchsia fur coat paired with light-wash, wide-leg denim, the floor-length puffers in silver or black-and-white and, of course, the sneakers.
See Off-White's Fall 2019 collection in full in the gallery below.