Must Read: What Hudson Yards Means for the Future of Retail, Karl Lagerfeld's Muses on His Final Chanel Show
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Friday.
What Hudson Yards means for the future of retail
The opening of The Shops at Hudson Yards comes at a pivotal time for retail: Malls have shuttered by the thousands over the last decade, and 2019 alone has had its fair share of store closures. The shopping center, which is a part of a 28-acre development over a rail yard on the west side of Manhattan, was built around the idea that the overall experience, rather than the specific products on display, would drive sales. Symbolically, it's "a beacon of modern retail: the culmination of experience, luxury and technology that ensures seamless online-offline shopping." If it works, there's a future in brick-and-mortar retail. If it doesn't, then "what chance does mass-scale retail stand elsewhere?" {Business of Fashion}
Karl Lagerfeld's muses on his final Chanel show
Vogue caught up with Caroline de Maigret and Penelope Cruz after Karl Lagerfeld's final Chanel show earlier this week to hear their thoughts on his last collection and what might be in the brand's future. The women applauded the feathery, Choupette-inspired confections in his Fall 2019 offering and said the French fashion house is in good hands with Virginie Viard as the head of design. "She's incredible," de Maigret said. "I've worked with her since the beginning." {Vogue}
Sources say C Ventures is the lead bidder for W Magazine
C Ventures, the venture capital firm started about 18 months ago by Adrian Cheng and Clive Ng, is said to be the front runner to acquire W Magazine from Condé Nast, according to WWD. The publication was originally given a price tag of around $8 million, but sources say negotiations have brought the price down by $1 million. While no official deal has been made, it is thought that a sale could be finalized sometime during Condé's first fiscal quarter, which ends in May. {WWD}
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Why fashion has started to favor single-category accessories brands
The fashion industry has turned its attention to the abundance of direct-to-consumer start-up brands focused on single categories — think labels that only make a playful lineup of socks, like Stance. The reason for the shift has to do with how people, especially men, have changed their outlook on accessories. Things like socks, belts and glasses are no longer just utilitarian items; now, they're viewed as ways to express yourself through fashion. {Glossy}
Max Mara continues to bank on its Teddy Bear coat
Max Mara first introduced its Teddy Bear coat in 2013, and it's proven to be a retailing monster, having generated over $50 million in revenues and inspired a host of copycats. Now, six years later, and the label is still betting on its plush Snuggie alternative. At its Fall 2019 show in Milan, Ian Griffiths recreated the coat in the classic fawn of stuffed animals and then added versions done in strident hues of cyan blue, cerulean and corn yellow. When The New York Times asked Griffiths why he upcycled the design, his answer was simple: "It's a big scary world, and nobody's grown-up enough not to need something to cling to," he said. "We're all looking for a little comfort and security." {The New York Times}
It's all about ownership for luxury brands
Taking ownership of an authentic thing or idea is one way brands can compete in an increasingly crowded market. Riccardo Tisci has repeatedly stated that Burberry "owns" beige, while Paul Andrew, the newly named creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, proclaimed that the brand wants to "own" color before the Fall 2019 show. Shortly after, Bally's CEO Frédéric de Narp talked about Bally "owning" the mountains. "A brand needs to define its territory, its uniqueness and point of view," de Narp said to WWD. "It cannot be all things to all people. Bally can't own the beach, but it can play with the idea of the mountains. Bally can do that in the summer, when there's no snow, and in the winter — and we can be the best at it." {WWD}
Madewell to collaborate with Girls, Inc. on International Women's Day capsule
As a part of Madewell's continued partnership with Girls, Inc., the non-profit that empowers young women through advocacy and education, the brand is launching a special International Women's Day capsule collection on Friday, with 50 percent of the proceeds going back to the organization. The line is priced from $10-$60 and includes a tank, sweatshirt, canvas tote, bandana and hat, all featuring a bold and colorful "Woman" graphic. {Fashionista inbox}