Since becoming the first woman to take the creative lead at Givenchy in October of 2017, Clare Waight Keller has made her well-received mark in women's ready-to-wear and couture (and bridal of course). Now she's turning her attention to the luxury house's menswear business: After showing a small men's collection in January, she staged her first full men's runway show on Wednesday in a beautiful garden in Florence, Italy during Pitti Uomo.
Titled "Nouveau Glitch," the show threw back to the early days of the internet, the soundtrack starting off with the impossible-to-forget sounds of a dial-up connection and devolving into EDM fit for a rave. The actual clothes felt more aligned with that era of technology than technology as a whole: Many pieces and styling details had a late '90s/early 2000s feel, but overall the collection was more about the combination of sportswear — which makes up most of Givenchy's current men's business — and tailoring, at which Waight Keller is very adept.
It was filled with suiting that was sharply tailored but still had a loose and easy fit, done with innovative fabrics in unlikely colors, sometimes styled with a sporty shirt or, in many cases, no shirt at all. More traditionally sporty items like anoraks and sweats had a luxe, elevated look. Skinny scarves were a popular accessory, as were wallet chains, carabiners, Virgil-at-Vuitton-esque belts and harnesses and, of course, sneakers. There was one style done in collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger — a first for the Japanese Asics offshoot.
As a whole, the collection hit on a number of today's menswear trends while still imbuing Waight Keller's elegant touch and reinvigorating Givenchy's menswear offering, which, according to WWD, makes up 50 percent of the house's overall business.
See every look from Givenchy's Men's Spring 2020 collection in the gallery below.