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Nicolas Ghesquière Earns a Standing Ovation for Louis Vuitton Spring 2020

The emotional show mashed up the '70s with the Belle Epoque.
A look from the Louis Vuitton Spring 2020 collection. Photo: Imaxtree.

A look from the Louis Vuitton Spring 2020 collection. Photo: Imaxtree.

It's not often that I would describe a Louis Vuitton show as being particularly emotional — moving, yes, in the way that seeing great art can be moving, but never really emotional. But Nicolas Ghesquière's Spring 2020 collection for the French house felt major in a way others haven't. Perhaps it was largely thanks to the giant screen playing a remixed version of Sophie's "It's Okay to Cry," but it also seems fair to say it was because of his clothes, which were some of his strongest yet.

According to show notes, the inspiration for Spring 2020 was a meeting between the Belle Epoque, Art Nouveau and the kind of futurist thinking Ghesquière is now known for. If that seems like a lot, well, it was — and weirdly, it worked. There were dandy suits in mismatched prints; sparkling sweater vests paired with voluminously tiered miniskirts; bright shades of purple and red against khakis and creams; exaggerated shoulders and puffed sleeves; and plenty of delightful prints. Every look came with an orchid pinned at the lapel, a "chimerical symbol of ultimate refinement" — up to you to decide what that means, but it looked lovely.

On the accessories front — the bread and butter of Louis Vuitton — there were loafers, both in a flatform and a heeled style. If you're into the LV monogram, there are are new bags in tote shapes and small Speedys. Top-handle ladylike satchels and patchwork-adorned snap styles make for the more outrageous bags available next season.

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By the time Ghesquière emerged to take his bow, the crowd was ready to jump to its feet to celebrate him, and the ensuing standing ovation felt well-earned.

See every look from the collection in the gallery below. 

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