Paris Fashion Week closed out the Spring 2020 season with a whirlwind of big-name shows and memorable fashions to match. But the collections themselves weren't the only eye-catching elements on the runways — the show-stopping hair and makeup also made quite an impact.
The French runways had a lot to live up to coming at the tail end of a beauty-filled month: We marveled over arts-and-crafts effects, embellished brows, jewel-tone lips, messy hair and vegetation-adorned styles in Milan; wayward eyeliner, deep side parts, braids and sunset eyes in London; and "Euphoria" eyes, '80s hair, rope braids and lip liner in New York.
Ahead, we've rounded up four of the top hair and makeup trends from the Paris Spring 2020 runways.
Retro '70s Hair
While the '80s had their moment on the New York runways, in Paris, hairstylists were fixated on '70s throwback styles. Paco Rabanne, Celine, Chanel and Sacai each showed models with their own spins on the decade, including long, center-parted looks, shags (especially prevalent at Hedi Slimane's Celine) and Afros. "We're inspired by the ladies in the '60s and '70s who had heavy, gorgeous hair like curtains that just fell down," said hairstylist Sam McKnight of the look he created for the Chanel runway. "But it's done in a natural way — it's brushable."
This one's a bit confusing on its surface, perhaps, but bear with us: Makeup artists have been getting more creative with pigment placement over the past several seasons (see: blush draping, embellished eyebrows), and for the spring shows, multiple looks featured some sort of adornment across the bridge of the nose and tops of the cheeks.
At Off-White, makeup artist Farah Homidi (for MAC) gave several models, including Gigi Hadid, "meteor shower eyes," meaning she used adhesive to stick silver glitter and sequins in between their eyes, over the tear ducts and across the bridges of their noses. For the joint Dries Van Noten x Christian Lacroix show, makeup artist Peter Philips went for a "Blade Runner" vibe, creating "brushstroke masks" with black, white or gold pigment drawn across models eyes, connecting in the middle. Chanel's iteration of nose-bridge was the subtlest, with makeup artist Lucia Pica drawing on faux freckles across models' cheekbones and noses.
For the Alexander McQueen show, hairstylist Guido Palau (for Redken) created pirate-like hairstyles, which incorporated Victorian-era braids wrapped with gold ribbons and layered with product (specifically Redken Guts 10) for a high-shine, sea-soaked effect. "I slathered [it] heavily into each section to give it a product-y feel," said Palau of the technique. He also went for a gleaming, wet look on the Loewe runway, albeit a much more polished one: "I've done a super-sleek ponytail with a very deep side part for a masculine, almost '20s feel," he said.
Over-the-Top Eye Adornment
The Milan runways got kitschy with arts-and-crafts-inspired beauty looks; in Paris, makeup artists continued with over-the-top adornments — but this time around, they were more refined and elegant. Take, for example, the luscious florals makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench stuck to models' faces for the Giambattista Valli show. We've seen flower faces before many times, but Ffrench's elaborate take on the trend was especially striking because each look was carefully (and painstakingly) placed to frame the models' eyes for maximum impact, almost giving the impression that the blooms had sprouted from models' cheekbones. Models' eyes at Schiaparelli were adorned not by flowers, but by gemstones; some wore rainbow rhinestones in radial patterns; others were decked out in metallic or neon lashes.
For the Valentino show, Pat McGrath leaned heavily into metallics as well: Models' lids (and, in some cases, lashes and brows) were decked out in glitter, crystals and fringe in bright gold. "Pierpaolo [Piccioli] really wanted gold," she said of the inspiration for the look. "He said, 'Just play!'"
The aforementioned Dries Van Noten x Christian Lacroix show, too, featured several types of multimedia embellishments: Some models wore narrow, brightly colored feathers hanging down around their eyes, while Philips gave those who weren't wearing the "brushstroke masks" stud decals, placed either at the inner corners of the eyes or outer ones.
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