For years, Joseph Altuzarra has greeted guests at his shows with a copy of a book that inspired the collection they're about to see on the runway. Unwrap the fashion week reading before the lights dim, and you can start guessing at what the theme of the season might be. Altuzarra had myths, explorers and the ocean on the mind for Fall 2022, as seen through flowy layers, slick leather and oversized scale-like sequins that paraded through the lobby of the Woolworth Building in Manhattan on Sunday night. Naturally, each attendee left with a copy of Herman Melville's 1851 classic "Moby Dick" in hand.
"I wanted the collection to not only evoke the intrepid and adventurous spirit of sailers and world travelers, but also the mystery and darkness of the ocean's depths, populated with mermaids and mythological creatures," the designer wrote in the show notes.
Altuzarra's excellent autumnal line imagines mythical nautical explorers (and the mermaids who might lure them to danger) through the lens of luxury. Our protagonists' clothes are meant to withstand the elements, the hard wear of long journeys and any creatures they might encounter along the way — so, there are smart separates in rich fabrics that offer plenty of coverage, from ankle-length onward, topped with furry-trimmed jackets and knit caps. There's a variety of knitwear on offer, from thick sailor sweaterdresses to a space-dye crop top and skirt set, as well asMoroccan Berber rug and Shibori tie-dye prints in warm reds, mustards, burnt oranges and blues. The accoutrements on the garments, such as mother-of-pearl fastening and weathered coin belts, also nod to the theme.
Accessories are a big highlight: powerful platform boots and thick platform sandals, totes with braided details and shoulder bags with fuzzy exteriors. To finish off, there's a series of skirts, coats and gowns covered in oversized golden discs, to create a mermaid-scale effect (and a powerful statement, as the embellishments announce their wearer's arrival).
See the complete Altuzarra Fall 2022 collection in the gallery below.