As much as some things change in fashion, others stay the same — like the constant change-ups at the very top, especially on the creative side.
In the first two months of 2022 alone, we had buzzy debuts from Nigo and Matthieu Blazy at Kenzo and Bottega Veneta, respectively, as well as some exciting announcements about what's to come, like Tremaine Emory's spin on Supreme. Later this spring, we'll also be getting a new era at Emilio Pucci, under Camille Miceli's leadership.
Keep up with all the creative director hires, exits and debuts at the major fashion brands, below.
Matthieu Blazy made his debut at Bottega Veneta during Milan Fashion Week in February, for Fall 2022, ushering in a new era for the brand. Former boss Raf Simons and partner (and creative director of Alaïa) Pieter Mulier were front row, as were Julianne Moore, Tracee Ellis Ross, Jacob Elordi, Yahya Abdul-Mateen II and more.
"I really think now it's the right time. I have enough experience and I know myself a little bit better to be able to make an objective decision and not be scared by the consequences," he told Business of Fashion's Tim Blanks ahead of the show. "It's a tough industry, but I know how to work with an atelier, I know how to work with a merchandising team. I know how the clothes are going to be translated into stock. I know how to work with a design team now. And I feel very comfortable with that. Now there is another scale, of course, like working with marketing imagery. But that's just adding something to what I knew already. So it's nice to be in charge."
Camille Miceli is slated to present her first collection for Emilio Pucci in April. She made the jump from Louis Vuitton accessories to lead the Italian fashion house back in September. She's the first woman to hold the role.
L Catterton-owned Etro brought on Marco De Vincenzo as creative director across women's, men's and home. He officially starts on June 1, 2022; his first collection will be Spring 2023, set to debut at Milan Fashion Week in September.
"As part of the brand's new course, we welcome with enthusiasm the arrival of Marco De Vincenzo," said Etro CEO Fabrizio Cardinali, in a statement. "Through his sensitivity for colors, prints and fabrics, we are sure that Marco will be able to translate at best Etro's extraordinary heritage into new interpretations for the different brand's collections and also giving a new drive to the world of accessories."
Hugo Boss is in the midst of a (surely quite expensive) rebrand. It had been primarily an influencer- and celebrity-heavy marketing push — until February, when the company announced there would be a shift in the design direction as well.
On Feb. 28, the brand announced that Chief Brand Officer Ingo Wilts would leave the company "for personal reasons." (He would, however, "continue to be involved in collection-related projects until the end of December," per a press release announcing his departure.) Marco Falcioni, who had been working for Hugo Boss since 2015, would be his replacement, acting as the new Senior Vice President Creative Direction beginning on March 1. Andrea Cannelloni, an alum of the Hugo Boss creative team, would also come on as a creative advisor as well.
"I look forward to working with Marco Falcioni and Andrea Cannelloni, who both bring outstanding creative style and expertise in collection development," Daniel Grieder, CEO of Hugo Boss, said, in a statement. "We want to be a 24/7 lifestyle brand for men and for women, reach out to younger consumers and turn them into true fans. I am therefore convinced that Marco Falcioni is the perfect choice for us to develop our collections into the future. He has an absolute feel for trends and hits the zeitgeist and aspirations of the new generations. Andrea Cannelloni will in return be of great relevance when it comes to bringing our casual and athleisure business back to full scale in the upcoming years."
Nigo's first-ever show as creative director of Kenzo during Paris Fashion Week Mens in January drew quite the crowd, including then-couple of the moment Ye and Julia Fox. The Japanese designer's debut collection sampled the '80s revival of the '50s Americana aesthetic that the designer grew up with in Japan and married it with the work and legacy of founder Kenzo Takada.
Following Angela Missoni's exit in May 2021, Missoni announced it hired Filippo Grazioli as its new creative director in March. (Angela is still involved in the business, just not heading up the creative as she once did.) Alberto Caliri, who filled the role in the interim, moved over to develop the brand's home and sport collections.
Grazioli has worked closely with Riccardo Tisci over the years, first at Givenchy (where he was director of collections) and then at Burberry (where he worked as director of the runway collection). In an interview with WWD, Missoni CEO Livio Proli said of the designer: "This is [Filippo's] opportunity to become a number one — not everyone has the prerequisites to do so, but he does. He has a serious methodology and he can modernize Missoni within a context that is constantly and quickly changing, while paying tribute to the brand and its roots. What I am looking for is a luxury hand, not a snob or conceptual."
On Jan. 31, Nina Ricci announced that Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter would be leaving the brand after over three years at the helm, choosing to switch gears and focus exclusively on their joint brand, Botter.
"The house Nina Ricci warmly thanks Lisi and Rushemy for their poetic interpretations of the brand's collections, which brought a fresh approach and a new sense of modernity to Nina Ricci which we will continue working on going forward," a statement from Nina Ricci provided to Vogue read. No replacement has been named; in the lookbook for Fall 2022, Nana Baehr is credited as the lead of the Nina Ricci studio.
In March, Maximilian Davis became the creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo, succeeding Paul Andrew, who left the company the year prior. Like Andrew, the designer will put his buzzy label Maximilian — which was shortlisted for the 2022 LVMH Prize, though ultimately withdrew from the competition — on hold as he takes over the reins of the Italian fashion company.
"I am deeply honored to be joining Ferragamo, and grateful for the opportunity to build on the rich and profound heritage of the house," the London College of Fashion grad said, in a statement. "Ferragamo represents a dedication to timeless elegance and sophistication that I find incredibly inspiring. I’m looking forward to articulating my vision, elevated by the codes of Italian craftsmanship, quality and innovation."
Supreme named its first-ever creative director in February 2022: Tremaine Emory, the founder of the cult label Denim Tears. Founder James Jebbia is still in the picture, overseeing the business, but Emory's hiring marks the brand's first major move since it was acquired by VF Corporation in late 2020.
Yeezy hired its first-ever head of design in March. Nur Abbas joined the brand from Nike, where he worked on special projects and the Nike ACG line; before that, he'd had stints at Maison Martin Margiela, Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Uniqlo. In this new role, he'll collaborate with Ye on creative direction for the Yeezy brand (and report directly to him).