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Saint Laurent's Quietly Chic Fall 2022 Collection Is a Breath of Fresh Air

A timeless, nearly all-black palate cleanser amid a season of early aughts-inspired excess.
Saint Laurent Fall 2022

Saint Laurent Fall 2022

Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello has firmly established himself as a master of selling sex in the form of luxury fashion: He's associated with exposed nipples, micro-micro-mini hemlines, dangerously low necklines, boob windows and fabrics that are either totally sheer or subtly fetishistic. So in a season where party-ready latex, bare midriffs and miniskirts are more de rigueur than ever, one might assume that Vaccarello would see this as his time to shine. Instead, he leans away from his usual aesthetic and towards something more practical, covered-up and quiet.

It's all still very Saint Laurent — mostly black and super luxurious — with a smattering of body-conscious silhouettes and patches of sheer fabric that allude to sexuality without overtness. Otherwise, the Fall 2022 looks are built around heavy, menswear-inspired outerwear juxtaposed against delicate, flowing gowns, accessorized with big stacks of bracelets and bold earrings in silver, gold and bronze. It's like what you'd expect elegant real women to wear on their way to a winter gala, before stopping by the coat check. 

Speaking of coats, the collection features an abundance of faux fur, and it's possible the imitation material has never looked so rich. He finishes out Fall 2022 with a selection of black tuxedos — no shirt underneath — in cool, slouchy silhouettes.

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This season, Vaccarello was inspired by Yves Saint Laurent, the person's, love of Art Deco design — which influenced the show "more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations," per the show notes. Another reference was Nancy Cunard, a jazz-age British heiress, writer and activist.

"A subdued matte palette hints at a moment of reflection," read the show notes. "Proving that restraint need not be joyless, this is a quietly poetic showing, shot through with bursts of unabashed resolve and verve."

As with Art Deco design, this collection is alluring in its simplicity, sophistication and streamlined nature, even if it lacks the party-girl energy of past seasons. It also feels like a breath of fresh air amid a season full of early aughts-inspired excess. That said, highlighting more size diversity on the runway could've made this collection even more refreshing.

See every look in the gallery below.

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