Following a slew of brands postponing (and others ultimately canceling) their London Fashion Week runway presentations in light of Queen Elizabeth II's passing on Sept. 8, Burberry's Riccardo Tisci held his Spring 2023 debut for the luxury house on Monday.
Despite the showcase clashing with the final day of Milan Fashion Week, Burberry hosted its anticipated collection at a warehouse in London, inviting a star-studded list of attendees both on (Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Mariacarla Boscono) and off (Kanye West, Erykah Badu, Normani) the runway.
Burberry's Spring 2023 line is inspired by the beach, which Tisci explained in a press release as "as a place where humanity meets, a point where different worlds collide."
"In summer, in Britain, the beach is a place of democracy, of community. It's where people from all cultures can in simple pleasures. I wanted to translate that ideology — that emotion — to an entire collection. I wanted to express that spirit of togetherness and joy, that reality," he said. "That tension between dressing and undressing, between revelation and protection, underwear and outerwear, all feels relevant to now and part of Burberry’s modern DNA... I was inspired by the liberation and openness of youth, of people embracing their bodies and revealing them – a pride in themselves, who they are, their identities. Their freedom. This feels modern, this feels right, and this feels Burberry."
The beloved heritage label proposes coveted high-waisted maxi skirts and layered denim numbers, plus lace-trimmed tops and skin-tight catsuits in its signature plaid print. There are also revealing bottoms with cutouts adorning the hip, perforated pieces and oversized trench dresses. On the accessories front, we see more oversized maxi bags, transparent PVC pith hats and puffer bags at the arms of fetishcore-inspired vests.
The standout piece might just be a loose-fitted gothic polo stamped with the word "Transcend," following the phrase "from the abyss with love" — which was also spotted on some of the guests sitting in the front row, like Simone Ashley and Lori Harvey.
Ahead of the final walkthrough, the background music paused for a moment of silence. Models dressed in off-the-shoulder velvet gowns and black ensembles resembling Britain's traditional ceremonial uniforms emerged, each paired with sheer logo-printed gloves.
See the full Burberry Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.