On Monday, Stuart Vevers presented his Spring 2023 collection for Coach in New York City. Set on a dreamlike pier, the show followed a narrative style presentation, opening with models leisurely walking the runway, some chatting, others dancing. One was even walking a dog.
What started out as a beige world of khakis and preppy trenches eased into an exciting lineup of gingham babydoll dresses, distressed knitwear and oversized leather jackets. While the overall color palette is rather subdued, there are exciting moments of color that come up unexpectedly, like in a pair of jelly sandals or in knit patchwork. Vevers' fascination with academia aesthetics continues, as seen in the Mary Janes, letterman jackets and satchel bags seen throughout.
In typical Coach fashion, the collection plays off of themes of Americana. "We were riffing off the cowboy, the sailor, the [American] family," Vevers says backstage. "Maybe more than any other season, this season feels like it's pulling from so many past, present, future. It's very fluid, and that's very much inspired by the next generation." (That would explain why were so many TikTokers spotted sitting front row that afternoon.)
Looking to the future also means shifting towards unisex pieces. Many of the looks feel genderless, and that was by design: "I'm looking to the next generation.... That's how they're thinking about gender. It's much more fluid. There isn't a men's bag or women's bag in the show."
Perhaps the person who best embodies that fluidity is American rapper Lil Nas X, who made a surprise appearance by closing the show. (Afterwards, he was officially announced as Coach's new global ambassador.) Heads turned in the crowd as the rapper strode down the runway in a leather vest, shorts and a pair of purple jelly sandals.
"I just think he's amazing," Vevers says. "He really pushes himself, he breaks boundaries."
See every single look from Coach's Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.