New York Fashion Week is upon us, and this season brings an exciting roster of new talents — and some well-known names that are just new to New York.
The September shows are always highly anticipated, and after several virtual and hybrid seasons, the New York calendar is looking more stacked than it has in a while, with designers eager to show off their best work and the city looking to reestablish its position in the global fashion market.
As always, there are up-and-coming brands bringing freshness to the lineup, like Bobblehaus and Tara Babylon. Alongside them are global players making appearances on the New York Fashion Week calendar for the very first time — namely, Fendi, Marni and Cos. Read on to meet all the new Spring 2023 players, below.
7 for All Mankind
Since 2000, 7 For All Mankind has made apparel for women, men and kids that effortlessly fits any style and marries luxury with casual. Over two decades later, it's on the New York Fashion Week calendar for the first time, with a presentation slated for Sept. 8.
Adrian Norris and Edwina Forrest launched Aje in 2008 with the goal of "empowering women through beautiful and compelling designs." The Australian brand was born out of a desire to bridge coastal and urban styles, and is best known for its colorful dresses, feminine silhouettes and effortlessly romantic pieces — or, perhaps, for its celebrity clientele, which includes Madonna, Katy Perry and Gigi Hadid. Though Aje has shown at Australia Fashion Week in the past, it's coming stateside with a presentation on Sept. 9.
Parsons graduate Andrew Kwon is a Korean-American designer specializing in couture bridal and eveningwear, having launched his eponymous label in 2020. He's presented a collection at New York Bridal Fashion Week, but is now joining the ready-to-wear lineup on Sept. 12.
Bad Binch Tong Tong
With Bad Binch Tong Tong, founder Terrence Zhou pushes the envelope with garment-making by specializing in eccentric designs and arachnophobia-inducing silhouettes that have been featured on the covers of magazines. The brand's first presentation is taking place on Sept. 9.
Black Boy Knits
Founded by Jacques Agbobly in 2020, Black Boy Knits aims to uplift Black, queer and immigrant voices through a global lens, drawing parallels between past and present and bringing artisanal traditions to the forefront of fashion. Now a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists, the brand will be setting up a showroom during New York Fashion Week on Sept. 12.
Launched by Ophelia Chen and Abi Lierheimer, Bobblehaus is a regenerative New York-designed fashion brand making hip, unisex clothes from leftover fabrics or recycled cotton (and planting 10 trees for every item sold). It's joining New York Fashion Week for the first time for Spring 2023, presenting a ready-to-wear collection inspired by "new life, the concept of blooming... and street style in both Shanghai and New York" on Sept. 8, according to a release.
COS — an abbreviation of "Collection of Style" — is a minimalist fashion retailer under the H&M Group umbrella. It first opened in London in 2007; since then, it's expanded to 30 markets worldwide, with 167 locations. Last season, COS was part of the London Fashion Week calendar, but for Spring 2023, it's coming to New York Fashion on Sept. 13.
A mainstay on the Milan ready-to-wear circuit, Fendi is a newcomer only in the sense that the Italian brand has never shown a collection on the official New York Fashion Week schedule. The brand made the surprise announcement with an image of Linda Evanglista on Instagram. The show will take place on Sept. 9.
Latoia Fitzgerald's Lionne isn't new to the runway, but it's new to New York Fashion Week. The brand — which has been worn by Karraueche Tran, Cassie and Camila Coelho — will host a runway show on Sept. 8.
Fendi's not the only Italian transplant on the New York Fashion Week calendar: Marni joins it with a runway show on Sept. 10, as part of the Milan-based brand's plan to kick off a so-called world tour in order to reach its global communities more intimately.
New York-based Mia Vesper is an independent label that mixes new, vintage and artisan-made textiles. You probably know the name thanks to Beyoncé, who commissioned a custom gown from the brand for "Black Is King," plus an 60 additional looks for her dancers in the visual album. The brand will show Fall 2022 on Sept. 11.
Shane Gonzales' Midnight Studios is coming to New York Fashion Week on Sept. 14. The menswear label was founded in 2014, after the L.A. creative already made a name for himself in music and art direction.
Before founding Mirror Palais in 2019, Marcelo Gaia worked for nearly a decade as a stylist, then starting a different brand with a friend before venturing out on his own. While made in New York, the garments are rooted in Gaia's Brazilian heritage, with a mix of '80s-inspired prints and feminine florals. Mirror Palais' first runway show will take place on Sept. 13.
An alumni of both CSM and Parsons, British-Iraqi designer Tara Babylon's eponymous brand focuses on color, craft, textiles and performance art through a gender-fluid lens. She's showcasing her primarily hand-made techniques at a presentation on Sept. 8 — a first for her label.